{"title":"Superworms \u0026 Black Soldier Fly","description":"\u003cp\u003eSuperworms and black soldier fly larvae — high-value feeders for reptiles and amphibians. Soldier fly larvae are naturally rich in calcium.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"black-soldier-fly-larvae-100g","title":"Black Soldier Fly Larvae 100g","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe one feeder insect that brings its own calcium.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlack soldier fly larvae (\u003cem\u003eHermetia illucens\u003c\/em\u003e) are supplied live in a 100 g tub. Among common feeder insects they are the exception: crickets, mealworms and superworms are all calcium-poor, while black soldier fly larvae carry more calcium than phosphorus. They suit bearded dragons, geckos, skinks, frogs, turtles and other small to medium insectivores.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich size do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeepers size feeders by a rule of thumb: a feeder should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes. Judge width, not length.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eToo wide risks choking and impaction. Too small and the animal spends more energy hunting than it gains from eating. These larvae are soft-bodied and slow-moving, which makes them a forgiving choice for young animals still learning to strike.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSupplied as a 100 g tub. Buy what your collection will get through in a fortnight rather than stockpiling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMost juveniles are fed daily and most adults every second or third day. Offer these as part of a rotation rather than as a sole diet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eNutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePublished figures put the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of black soldier fly larvae at about 2.5:1 — calcium-dominant, where nearly every other feeder insect runs the other way. That imbalance is the direct cause of metabolic bone disease in reptiles fed unsupplemented insects, so a feeder that corrects for it is worth knowing about.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe figure moves with rearing substrate. A review of published analyses recorded calcium anywhere from 1.2 to 35.7 g\/kg, so treat 2.5:1 as indicative rather than fixed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eResearchers who fed these larvae to leopard geckos concluded it is not yet settled whether they supply enough calcium unsupplemented, and advised feeding a variety of insects. Follow that advice rather than treating one feeder as complete nutrition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGut-loading and dusting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlack soldier fly larvae are usually offered without dusting, which is the main reason keepers choose them. They also do not need gut-loading the way crickets do — the calcium is in the body, not in the gut contents.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep dusting the rest of your feeder rotation. If your animal has no UVB, or is growing, gravid or recovering, discuss the overall diet with a reptile vet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eKeeping them alive at home\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub at cool room temperature, out of direct sun, with the lid ventilated. Do not refrigerate them — unlike mealworms, sustained cold kills them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThey need no feeding for the life of the tub. If they darken and pupate into small dark flies they are still safe to offer, though most animals prefer them as larvae.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSuitable for, and not suitable for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable for bearded dragons, geckos, skinks, water dragons, frogs, turtles and insect-eating birds and fish, at a size matched to the animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot suitable as a sole diet for any animal, and not a substitute for UVB or for veterinary advice on an animal showing signs of calcium deficiency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafety and welfare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRemove uneaten larvae from an enclosure at the end of the day — they burrow into substrate and are easily lost. Wash hands after handling feeders and cleaning tubs, and keep the tub closed and out of reach of children.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGoes well with\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/exo-terra-calcium-d3-powder\"\u003eExo Terra Calcium + D3 Powder\u003c\/a\u003e — for the rest of your feeder rotation, which needs it even though these do not.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/zoo-med-stainless-steel-feeding-tongs-10\"\u003eZoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs\u003c\/a\u003e — offer larvae without your fingers becoming part of the feeding response.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/zoo-med-cricket-block\"\u003eZoo Med Cricket Block\u003c\/a\u003e — for gut-loading the crickets you feed alongside these.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLive arrival and delivery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLive feeders are supplied for in-store collection or posted Australia wide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDo I still need to dust black soldier fly larvae with calcium?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsually not. Black soldier fly larvae have a published calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of about 2.5:1, so they are generally fed undusted, unlike crickets and mealworms which should always be dusted.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan black soldier fly larvae be the only feeder I use?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Research feeding these larvae to leopard geckos recommended a varied insect diet rather than relying on a single feeder, and calcium content varies with how the larvae were reared.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I keep black soldier fly larvae in the fridge?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Unlike mealworms, they should not be refrigerated. Keep them at cool room temperature with ventilation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat size feeder is safe for my reptile?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOffer a feeder no wider than the gap between your animal's eyes. This is the standard rule of thumb keepers use to avoid choking and impaction, and it applies to every feeder insect.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Live Foods","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":55242213654819,"sku":"AA3800","price":19.95,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/files\/black-soldier-fly-larvae-100-43507980599587.webp?v=1790234088"},{"product_id":"superworms-50g","title":"Superworms 50g","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe largest single tub, for a rotation you run to a schedule.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms (\u003cem\u003eZophobas morio\u003c\/em\u003e) supplied live in a 50 g tub. This is the size for a keeper who has already decided where superworms sit in the diet — two or three animals, fed on a set day, as the rich item in an otherwise leaner rotation. If you are still deciding, start smaller; a tub this size rewards a routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich size do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeepers size feeders by a widely used rule of thumb: a feeder should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes. Measure the animal, not the worm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEvery superworm tub holds the same single larval grade, so buying a bigger tub never gets you a bigger or smaller worm. Where the eye-gap check fails, the answer is a different insect — a feeder wider than that gap risks choking and impaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 50 g tub is about a month of fortnightly feeds across two or three medium lizards. Across one animal it is too much: the tub will outlast the sensible feeding rate and you will end up with beetles rather than feeders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eNutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe number that matters most is calcium. A peer-reviewed analysis of the species reports calcium at 31.9 to 70.8 mg per 100 g of dry matter against phosphorus at 562.9 to 564.9 mg — a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of roughly 0.06:1 to 0.13:1, where an insectivore needs closer to 2:1 the other way round. That deficit, fed unsupplemented, is the direct route to metabolic bone disease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe same analysis reports crude fat at 35.0 to 43.6 percent of dry matter. Rich enough to be useful for a poor feeder or an animal recovering condition, and rich enough that a rotation is the right way to use a tub this size.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGut-loading and dusting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGut-load for 24 to 48 hours on a calcium-rich food, then dust with calcium immediately before offering.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe window is narrow, and it matters more with a larger tub. A veterinary study that gut-loaded superworms on a high-calcium cricket feed measured a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of 1.46 at day two, falling to 0.67 by day seven as the calcium passed through. Decant the portion for this feed into a separate container, gut-load and dust that, and leave the rest of the tub on plain bedding until its turn. Use calcium with D3 where the animal has no UVB; where UVB is good, plain calcium is usually the better choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eKeeping them alive at home\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub at room temperature, out of direct sun, with the lid ventilated. Never refrigerate superworms — unlike mealworms they do not tolerate cold, and a night in the fridge will kill a tub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOver a month of holding, ventilation and moisture control do the work. Use bran or oat bedding, add a slice of carrot or potato and replace it before it moulds, and pick out any dead or blackened worms as you go so the rest of the tub keeps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSuitable for, and not suitable for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable for adult and larger juvenile bearded dragons, blue-tongue skinks, water dragons, monitors, larger geckos and turtles — particularly a small collection fed on a schedule.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot suitable for hatchlings or small juveniles, where the size and hard outer shell are a real impaction risk. Not suitable as a staple for any species, and not the right buy for a single pet, where the tub will spoil or pupate before it is finished.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafety and welfare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms have strong mandibles and will bite. Offer them with tongs rather than fingers, and never leave uneaten worms loose overnight with a sleeping or torpid animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub closed and out of reach of children, and wash hands after handling feeders or their containers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGoes well with\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/exo-terra-calcium-d3-powder\"\u003eExo Terra Calcium + D3 Powder\u003c\/a\u003e — the supplement that fixes the ratio above.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/zoo-med-stainless-steel-feeding-tongs-10\"\u003eZoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs\u003c\/a\u003e — the sensible way to offer a feeder that bites.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/large-woodies\"\u003eLarge Woodies\u003c\/a\u003e — the leaner everyday feeder to rotate superworms against.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/superworms-40g\"\u003eSuperworms 40 g\u003c\/a\u003e — a step down for one or two animals.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/superworms-100g\"\u003eSuperworms 100 g\u003c\/a\u003e — the bulk tub for a larger collection.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLive arrival and delivery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLive feeders are supplied for in-store collection or posted Australia wide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eShould I gut-load the whole 50 g tub at once?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Gut-loaded calcium peaks at around 48 hours and has largely passed through by day seven, so gut-load only the portion you are about to feed and leave the rest of the tub on plain bran bedding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eHow long will a 50 g tub of superworms keep at home?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSeveral weeks at room temperature in a ventilated tub with bran bedding and fresh vegetable for moisture, provided dead worms are removed as they appear. They cannot be refrigerated to extend that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy have some of my superworms curled up and gone still?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA superworm that separates from the group, curls into a C shape and stops moving is pupating into a darkling beetle. It is a normal response to isolation, not illness, and the beetle is no longer useful as a feeder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eAre superworms safe for a juvenile bearded dragon?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot for hatchlings or small juveniles. Superworms are supplied in one large grade with a hard outer shell, so wait until the worm is narrower than the gap between the dragon's eyes and use smaller insects until then.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Live Foods","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":55242228007203,"sku":"BA8948","price":15.95,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/files\/superworms-50g-43506992611619.webp?v=1790234085"},{"product_id":"superworms-20g","title":"Superworms 20g","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe small tub, matched to how often superworms should actually be fed.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms (\u003cem\u003eZophobas morio\u003c\/em\u003e) are supplied live in a 20 g tub. This is the size for one animal using superworms as an occasional feeder — a treat, a way to tempt a lizard back onto food after a shed, or a change from crickets and roaches. It is deliberately small, because superworms are not a feeder you want to be getting through quickly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich size do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeepers size feeders by a rule of thumb: a feeder should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes. Judge width, not length.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms come at one larval size, and it is a large one. There is no smaller superworm grade — if these are wider than your animal's eye gap, choose a different feeder rather than a smaller pack. Too wide risks choking and impaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne tub, one animal, used sparingly. If you are getting through a 20 g tub in a few days, superworms are almost certainly making up too much of the diet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA useful check: superworms should be the feeder your animal is pleased to see, not the one it expects. If you feed several animals or run superworms in a regular rotation, the larger tubs work out better.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eNutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms are rich, and that is the whole point of them. A published review of the species reports crude fat between 35.0 and 43.6 percent of dry matter — high enough that a superworm will tempt an animal that has turned its nose up at everything else, and high enough that a steady diet of them puts weight on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThey are also strongly calcium-poor. The same review reports calcium at 31.9 to 70.8 mg per 100 g of dry matter against phosphorus at roughly 563 mg per 100 g — a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of about 0.06:1 to 0.13:1, where an insectivore needs closer to 2:1 in the other direction. Undusted, that shortfall causes metabolic bone disease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGut-loading and dusting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGut-load for 24 to 48 hours on a calcium-rich food, dust with calcium immediately before offering, and feed out promptly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA veterinary study that gut-loaded superworms on a high-calcium cricket feed recorded a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of 1.47:1 at 48 hours, with calcium falling from about 0.95 percent of dry matter at day two to 0.43 percent by day seven. Gut-loading works, but it fades — feed the worms while it counts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith a tub this size it is easy to tip a few worms into a container, shake with powder and offer straight away. Use calcium with D3 where the animal has no UVB; where good UVB is provided, plain calcium is usually the better choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eKeeping them alive at home\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub at room temperature, out of direct sun, with the lid ventilated. Do not refrigerate superworms — unlike mealworms, they do not tolerate the cold and a night in the fridge will kill them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAdd bran or oat bedding and a slice of carrot or potato for moisture, replaced before it moulds. A tub this size should be fed out well before pupation becomes a question.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSuitable for, and not suitable for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable for a single adult or larger juvenile bearded dragon, blue-tongue skink, water dragon, monitor, larger gecko or turtle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot suitable for hatchlings or small juveniles, where the size and hard outer shell are a genuine impaction risk. Not suitable as a staple, and not suitable for an animal already carrying too much weight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafety and welfare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms have strong mandibles and will bite. Offer them with tongs rather than fingers, and remove any that are not taken rather than leaving them loose with a torpid animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub closed and out of reach of children, and wash hands after handling feeders or cleaning containers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGoes well with\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/exo-terra-calcium-d3-powder\"\u003eExo Terra Calcium + D3 Powder\u003c\/a\u003e — essential with a feeder this calcium-poor.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/zoo-med-stainless-steel-feeding-tongs-10\"\u003eZoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs\u003c\/a\u003e — the sensible way to offer a feeder that bites.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/large-woodies\"\u003eLarge Woodies\u003c\/a\u003e — a leaner everyday feeder to build the diet around.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/superworms-100g\"\u003eSuperworms 100 g\u003c\/a\u003e — the bulk tub, for several animals or a regular rotation.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLive arrival and delivery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLive feeders are supplied for in-store collection or posted Australia wide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eHow is the 20 g tub different from the larger ones?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnly in quantity. The 20 g tub suits one animal fed superworms occasionally; the 40 g, 50 g and 100 g tubs suit several animals or a regular rotation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eHow often can I feed my lizard superworms?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTreat them as an occasional feeder rather than a daily one. With crude fat between 35 and 44 percent of dry matter, superworms fed routinely will put weight on an animal that should be eating leaner insects and greens.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I keep superworms in the fridge like mealworms?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Superworms do not tolerate refrigeration and will die. Keep them at room temperature in a ventilated tub with bran bedding and a piece of vegetable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDo superworms bite?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYes. They have strong mandibles, so offer them with feeding tongs rather than fingers and remove any left uneaten in the enclosure.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Live Foods","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":55242236756259,"sku":"AA3710","price":12.0,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/files\/superworms-20g-43506992546083.webp?v=1790234084"},{"product_id":"mealworms-50g","title":"Mealworms 50g","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA tidy, easy-to-store feeder for one or two animals.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMealworms (\u003cem\u003eTenebrio molitor\u003c\/em\u003e) are supplied live in a 50 g tub. They do not jump, do not climb smooth sides and do not chirp, which makes them the least troublesome feeder to keep in a household. This size suits a single reptile or a small collection using mealworms as part of a rotation rather than as the main feeder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich size do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule keepers use is that a feeder should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes. Width is the measure, not length.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMealworms are supplied at standard feeder size and suit juvenile to adult geckos, skinks, bearded dragons and similar insectivores. They are not a hatchling feeder: the hard outer shell is more of an obstacle for a very small animal than the size alone suggests.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 50 g tub is sized for one or two animals over a couple of weeks, or as an occasional feeder in a larger collection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause mealworms keep far longer than crickets when refrigerated, the smaller tub is less about turnover and more about how much of the diet you intend mealworms to be. Most keepers offer them a few times a week alongside other feeders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eNutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMealworms are among the most calcium-poor feeders in common use. A veterinary study measured calcium in unsupplemented mealworms at 0.04 to 0.06 percent of dry matter, giving a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of roughly 0.05 to 0.08 to 1 — that is somewhere between thirteen and twenty times more phosphorus than calcium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInsectivores need the ratio the other way round, closer to 2:1 in favour of calcium. Fed undusted, mealworms are a direct route to metabolic bone disease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThey are also high in fat and heavy in chitin, the hard outer shell, so they are a supporting feeder rather than a staple.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGut-loading and dusting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGut-load the mealworms for 24 to 48 hours on a calcium-rich food, then dust with a calcium supplement immediately before offering and feed them out promptly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUse calcium with D3 for animals kept without UVB. Where good UVB is provided, plain calcium is usually the better choice. Dusting sticks poorly to a smooth mealworm, so shake them in a tub with the powder rather than sprinkling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eKeeping them alive at home\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMealworms are the one common feeder that stores well cold. Kept in the refrigerator at around 8 to 10 degrees they slow almost to a stop and will keep for several weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBring them out for a few hours each week at room temperature with a slice of carrot or potato so they can feed and take up moisture, then return them to the cold. At room temperature they will pupate into beetles within weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSuitable for, and not suitable for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable for juvenile and adult leopard geckos, bearded dragons, skinks, water dragons, turtles and insectivorous birds and fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot suitable for hatchlings and very small animals, where the hard shell is a genuine impaction risk. Not suitable as a staple diet, given the fat content and the calcium deficit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafety and welfare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMealworms can bite, and a mealworm swallowed by a cold or unwell animal may not be digested promptly. Feed only to animals warm enough to digest, and remove uneaten worms rather than leaving them to burrow into substrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWash hands after handling feeders and keep the tub closed and out of reach of children.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGoes well with\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/exo-terra-calcium-d3-powder\"\u003eExo Terra Calcium + D3 Powder\u003c\/a\u003e — essential with a feeder this calcium-poor.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/zoo-med-stainless-steel-feeding-tongs-10\"\u003eZoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs\u003c\/a\u003e — useful for offering mealworms individually rather than loose in the enclosure.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/mealworms-100g\"\u003eLive Mealworms 100 g\u003c\/a\u003e — the larger tub, for multiple animals or regular feeding.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLive arrival and delivery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLive feeders are supplied for in-store collection or posted Australia wide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I keep mealworms in the fridge?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYes. Mealworms stored at around 8 to 10 degrees Celsius go dormant and keep for several weeks. Warm them for a few hours weekly with a piece of carrot or potato so they can feed, then return them to the refrigerator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDo mealworms need to be dusted with calcium?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlways. Unsupplemented mealworms have a measured calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of about 0.05 to 0.08 to 1, far short of the roughly 2:1 that insectivorous reptiles require.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan mealworms be my gecko's only food?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Mealworms are high in fat, heavy in chitin and very calcium-poor, so they should form part of a varied insect diet rather than a staple.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eMy mealworms have turned into beetles. Are they still usable?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe beetles are safe but most reptiles refuse them. Pupation is a sign the tub has been kept too warm; refrigeration prevents it.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Live Foods","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":55242242326819,"sku":"AA3531","price":12.95,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/files\/mealworms-50g-43506992447779.webp?v=1790234084"},{"product_id":"mealworms-100g","title":"Mealworms 100g","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe larger tub, for keepers feeding more than one animal.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMealworms (\u003cem\u003eTenebrio molitor\u003c\/em\u003e) are supplied live in a 100 g tub. This is the size for a multi-animal collection, a group of growing juveniles, or a keeper who feeds mealworms on a regular rotation and would rather restock monthly than weekly. Refrigerated, a tub this size keeps long enough to justify buying it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich size do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule keepers use is that a feeder should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes. Width, not length, is what decides whether a feeder is safe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMealworms come at standard feeder size and suit juvenile through adult geckos, skinks, dragons and turtles. They are not a hatchling feeder — the hard outer shell makes them harder work than their size suggests for a very small animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 100 g tub is aimed at collections rather than single pets. If you keep one gecko, the 50 g tub will usually be finished before this one would be.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJudge it by how much of the diet mealworms make up. Because they are fatty and calcium-poor, they should be one feeder among several — so even in a larger collection, a 100 g tub is generally a month's supply rather than a fortnight's.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eNutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMealworms are among the most calcium-poor feeders in common use. A veterinary study measured calcium in unsupplemented mealworms at 0.04 to 0.06 percent of dry matter, a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of roughly 0.05 to 0.08 to 1 — thirteen to twenty times more phosphorus than calcium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInsectivores need that ratio reversed, nearer 2:1 in favour of calcium. Fed undusted, mealworms lead directly to metabolic bone disease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBuying in bulk makes this more important, not less. The larger the tub, the easier it is to let mealworms quietly become the default feeder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGut-loading and dusting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGut-load for 24 to 48 hours on a calcium-rich food, dust with calcium immediately before offering, and feed promptly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith a tub this size, decant only what you need into a separate container to dust. Dusting the whole tub wastes supplement and fouls the bedding. Powder does not cling well to a smooth mealworm, so shake rather than sprinkle. Use calcium with D3 where there is no UVB, and plain calcium where good UVB is provided.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eKeeping them alive at home\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRefrigerate at around 8 to 10 degrees Celsius and mealworms go dormant, keeping for several weeks — which is what makes the larger tub practical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnce a week, bring the tub to room temperature for a few hours with a slice of carrot or potato so the worms can feed and rehydrate, then return it to the cold. Remove any dead or blackened worms at the same time. Left warm, the tub will pupate into beetles within weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSuitable for, and not suitable for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable for collections of juvenile and adult leopard geckos, bearded dragons, skinks, water dragons, turtles and insectivorous birds and fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot suitable for hatchlings or very small animals, where the hard shell is a genuine impaction risk. Not suitable as a staple, and not the right buy for a single small pet, where the tub will pupate before it is used.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafety and welfare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFeed only to animals warm enough to digest properly, and remove uneaten worms rather than letting them burrow into substrate where they will be missed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub sealed and refrigerated separately from human food, and wash hands after handling feeders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGoes well with\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/exo-terra-calcium-d3-powder\"\u003eExo Terra Calcium + D3 Powder\u003c\/a\u003e — essential with a feeder this calcium-poor.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/mealworms-50g\"\u003eLive Mealworms 50 g\u003c\/a\u003e — the smaller tub, better suited to a single animal.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/black-soldier-fly-larvae-100g\"\u003eBlack Soldier Fly Larvae 100 g\u003c\/a\u003e — a calcium-positive feeder to rotate against mealworms.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLive arrival and delivery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLive feeders are supplied for in-store collection or posted Australia wide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eHow long will a 100 g tub of mealworms last?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRefrigerated at around 8 to 10 degrees Celsius, mealworms stay dormant and usable for several weeks. Kept at room temperature they will feed, grow and pupate into beetles within a few weeks instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eShould I buy the 50 g or the 100 g tub?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 50 g tub suits a single animal or occasional feeding. The 100 g tub suits multiple animals or regular rotation, and only makes sense if you can refrigerate it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDo I dust the whole tub or just what I feed?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnly what you are feeding. Decant a portion into a separate container, shake it with calcium powder and offer immediately; dusting the whole tub wastes supplement and spoils the bedding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan mealworms be a staple feeder?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Mealworms are high in fat, heavy in chitin and very calcium-poor, so they belong in a varied insect diet rather than as the main feeder.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Live Foods","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":55242242556195,"sku":"AA3532","price":20.95,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/files\/mealworms-100g-43506992513315.webp?v=1790234084"},{"product_id":"silkworms-12-pack","title":"Silkworms - 12 pack","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA soft, wet feeder for an animal that is off its food.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSilkworms (\u003cem\u003eBombyx mori\u003c\/em\u003e) are supplied live in a pack of 12. They have no hard shell and a very high moisture content, which makes them easy work for animals that struggle with crickets and mealworms — a gecko recovering from illness, a dragon in shed, or a fussy feeder that needs tempting. Twelve is the pack to try them with, or to keep one animal going for a few days.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich size do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule keepers use is that a feeder should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes. Width, not length, is what decides whether a feeder is safe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSilkworms are the awkward case here, because they do not hold a grade. They grow continuously and cannot be held at one size, so check them against the eye-width rule on the day you feed rather than assuming they are the same as last week.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwelve suits one animal fed silkworms as a treat or a top-up over roughly a week. If you feed them regularly, or keep more than one animal, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/silkworms-25-pack\"\u003e25 pack\u003c\/a\u003e works out better.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDo not over-order and plan to save the rest. Unlike mealworms, silkworms cannot be paused — they keep growing and eating whatever you do.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eNutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSilkworms are widely sold as a calcium-rich feeder. The published figures do not support that. Compiled analyses of commercially raised invertebrates put silkworm larvae at roughly 1 part calcium to 13 parts phosphorus — calcium-poor, in the same territory as mealworms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInsectivores need that ratio reversed, closer to 2:1 in favour of calcium. The genuine advantages of silkworms are the soft body, the moisture and the palatability, and those are reason enough to buy them. The calcium claim is not.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGut-loading and dusting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDust with calcium immediately before offering and feed straight away. Powder clings well to a silkworm, better than it does to a smooth mealworm, so a light coating is enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGut-loading is not really an option with this species. Silkworms eat mulberry leaves or mulberry chow and very little else, so you cannot load them on a calcium-rich food the way you would a cricket. Dusting does the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUse calcium with D3 where the animal has no UVB, and plain calcium where good UVB is provided.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eKeeping them alive at home\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep them at normal warm room temperature, roughly 22 to 28 degrees, in a ventilated container. Do not refrigerate them — this is the single most common way keepers lose a pack. Cold kills silkworms rather than slowing them down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFeed mulberry leaves or mulberry chow, keep the container dry underneath and remove any mouldy food promptly. Mould, not hunger, is what usually takes out a small pack.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSuitable for, and not suitable for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable for leopard and crested geckos, bearded dragons, skinks, water dragons, chameleons, frogs and turtles, at a size matched to the animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot suitable as a sole diet, and not a calcium supplement. Not suitable if you cannot use them within a week or so, since they will outgrow the size you bought.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafety and welfare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSilkworms do not bite, do not jump and cannot climb out of a smooth container, so they are among the safest feeders to leave briefly with an animal. Still remove any uneaten worms at the end of the day rather than letting them be lost in substrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWash hands after handling feeders and keep the container out of reach of children.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGoes well with\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/exo-terra-calcium-d3-powder\"\u003eExo Terra Calcium + D3 Powder\u003c\/a\u003e — needed here, despite the silkworm's reputation.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/zoo-med-stainless-steel-feeding-tongs-10\"\u003eZoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs\u003c\/a\u003e — the practical way to offer a soft feeder individually.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/black-soldier-fly-larvae-100g\"\u003eBlack Soldier Fly Larvae 100g\u003c\/a\u003e — the feeder that genuinely is calcium-positive.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLive arrival and delivery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLive feeders are supplied for in-store collection or posted Australia wide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eAre silkworms actually high in calcium?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Published analyses of commercially raised feeder invertebrates put silkworm larvae near 1 part calcium to 13 parts phosphorus, which is calcium-poor. Dust them with calcium before feeding, the same as crickets and mealworms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I keep silkworms in the fridge like mealworms?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Refrigeration kills silkworms rather than slowing them down. Keep them at roughly 22 to 28 degrees Celsius in a ventilated container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat do silkworms eat?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnly mulberry leaves or commercial mulberry chow. They will not take vegetables or standard insect gut-load, which is why silkworms are dusted rather than gut-loaded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eShould I buy the 12 pack or the 25 pack?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 12 pack suits a single animal or trying silkworms for the first time. The 25 pack suits multiple animals or regular feeding, and only makes sense if you can get through them before they outgrow the size you need.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Live Foods","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":55242266378531,"sku":"BA8790","price":22.5,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/files\/silkworms-12-pack-43506992709923.webp?v=1790234088"},{"product_id":"silkworms-25-pack","title":"Silkworms - 25 pack","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe pack for keepers who have already decided silkworms work.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSilkworms (\u003cem\u003eBombyx mori\u003c\/em\u003e) are supplied live in a pack of 25. This is the size for a small collection, a chameleon or gecko fed silkworms on rotation, or a keeper who has found their animal takes these when it refuses everything else. Twenty-five is enough to be worth the effort of keeping them properly — and it does take a little effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich size do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule keepers use is that a feeder should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes. Width, not length, decides whether a feeder is safe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSilkworms will not hold a size. They grow through several stages and cannot be stalled, so a pack that is correctly sized on the day it arrives may be too wide for a small animal a fortnight later. With 25 worms this matters more than it does with a small pack — plan the feeding order so the last ones are eaten before they outgrow your animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwenty-five suits several animals, or one animal fed silkworms two or three times a week. For a single reptile trying them for the first time, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/silkworms-12-pack\"\u003e12 pack\u003c\/a\u003e is the better buy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJudge the quantity by how fast you can use them rather than by price per worm. Buying the larger pack and losing the tail end of it is the usual outcome when silkworms are treated like mealworms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eNutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSilkworms are widely marketed as a calcium-rich feeder. Published figures do not support the claim: compiled analyses of commercially raised invertebrates place silkworm larvae at roughly 1 part calcium to 13 parts phosphorus, which is calcium-poor and comparable to mealworms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBuy them for what they actually offer — a soft body with no hard chitin, high moisture, and unusually good acceptance from reluctant feeders. Those are real advantages. Treating them as a calcium source is how a well-meaning keeper ends up with a deficient animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGut-loading and dusting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDust with calcium immediately before offering, then feed straight away. Powder holds well on a silkworm, so a light coating is enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGut-loading does not apply here. Silkworms eat mulberry leaves or mulberry chow and essentially nothing else, so there is no way to load them on a calcium-rich food. With a pack this size, decant what you are feeding into a separate tub to dust rather than powdering the whole container, which spoils the chow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUse calcium with D3 where the animal has no UVB, and plain calcium where good UVB is provided.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eKeeping them alive at home\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the container at warm room temperature, roughly 22 to 28 degrees, with ventilation. Do not refrigerate — cold kills silkworms rather than holding them, which is the opposite of how mealworms behave and the mistake that costs keepers a whole pack.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFeed mulberry leaves or mulberry chow, refresh it every couple of days, and clean out droppings and old food regularly. At 25 worms the waste builds up fast, and mould in the container will take the pack out well before hunger does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSuitable for, and not suitable for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable for collections of leopard and crested geckos, bearded dragons, chameleons, skinks, water dragons, frogs and turtles, at a size matched to each animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot suitable as a sole diet, and not a substitute for calcium supplementation. Not the right buy for a single small pet or an occasional feeder, where most of the pack will outgrow the animal before it is used.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafety and welfare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSilkworms do not bite, jump or climb smooth sides, which makes them one of the safest feeders to offer. Remove uneaten worms at the end of the day rather than leaving them to be lost in substrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the container away from human food, wash hands after handling, and keep it out of reach of children.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGoes well with\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/exo-terra-calcium-d3-powder\"\u003eExo Terra Calcium + D3 Powder\u003c\/a\u003e — needed here, despite the silkworm's reputation.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/silkworms-12-pack\"\u003eSilkworms 12 Pack\u003c\/a\u003e — the smaller pack, for a single animal or a first try.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/zoo-med-stainless-steel-feeding-tongs-10\"\u003eZoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs\u003c\/a\u003e — for offering soft feeders individually.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLive arrival and delivery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLive feeders are supplied for in-store collection or posted Australia wide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eHow long will a 25 pack of silkworms last?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnly as long as they stay the right size for your animal, usually one to two weeks. Silkworms cannot be refrigerated or held at a size, so plan to feed the pack out rather than store it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDo silkworms need dusting with calcium?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYes. Published analyses put silkworm larvae near 1 part calcium to 13 parts phosphorus, so they are calcium-poor despite often being sold as calcium-rich. Dust before every feed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy are my silkworms dying?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlmost always cold or mould. Keep them at roughly 22 to 28 degrees Celsius, never in the fridge, and remove old or mouldy chow every couple of days.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan silkworms be a staple feeder?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThey can form a regular part of a varied diet, but not the whole of it. Feed a mix of insects and dust with calcium, since no single feeder covers an insectivore's requirements on its own.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Live Foods","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":55242268803363,"sku":"BA8791","price":35.0,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/files\/silkworms-25-pack-43506992742691.webp?v=1790234088"},{"product_id":"superworms-100g","title":"Superworms 100G","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe bulk tub, for a collection that gets through superworms.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms (\u003cem\u003eZophobas morio\u003c\/em\u003e) are supplied live in a 100 g tub. This is the size for a multi-animal collection or a keeper running superworms through a regular rotation. They are large, active and very high in fat, which makes them an excellent way to tempt a reluctant feeder and a poor choice as a staple.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich size do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeepers size feeders by a rule of thumb: a feeder should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes. Judge width, not length.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms are supplied at one larval size, and it is a big one. There is no smaller grade to drop back to — if a superworm is wider than your animal's eye gap, the answer is a different feeder rather than a different tub. Too wide risks choking and impaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 100 g tub is aimed at collections rather than single pets. If you keep one gecko or one dragon, the 20 g tub will be finished long before this one would be.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJudge it by how much of the diet superworms make up. Because they are fatty, they belong in rotation rather than in the daily bowl — so even across several animals, a tub this size is generally a month's supply rather than a fortnight's.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eNutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms are one of the fattiest feeders in common use. A published review of the species reports crude fat between 35.0 and 43.6 percent of dry matter, which is why they put weight on an animal quickly and why keepers use them to bring a reluctant feeder back onto food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThey are also strongly calcium-poor. The same review reports calcium at 31.9 to 70.8 mg per 100 g of dry matter against phosphorus at roughly 563 mg per 100 g — a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of about 0.06:1 to 0.13:1, where insectivores need closer to 2:1 the other way. Fed undusted, that shortfall leads directly to metabolic bone disease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGut-loading and dusting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGut-load for 24 to 48 hours on a calcium-rich food, dust with calcium immediately before offering, and feed out promptly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe timing matters more here than with most feeders. A veterinary study that gut-loaded superworms on a high-calcium cricket feed recorded a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of 1.47:1 at 48 hours, with calcium peaking near 0.95 percent of dry matter at day two and falling back to 0.43 percent by day seven. Gut-load, then feed those worms out — do not gut-load the whole tub and leave it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith a tub this size, decant only what you need into a separate container to dust. Use calcium with D3 where the animal has no UVB; where good UVB is provided, plain calcium is usually the better choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eKeeping them alive at home\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub at room temperature, out of direct sun, with the lid ventilated. Do not refrigerate superworms — unlike mealworms, they do not tolerate the cold and a night in the fridge will kill a tub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGive them bran or oat bedding with a slice of carrot or potato for moisture, replaced before it moulds. Kept together in a group they stay as larvae; isolated individually they pupate into beetles, which is worth knowing if you find one sitting curled and inactive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSuitable for, and not suitable for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable for adult and larger juvenile bearded dragons, blue-tongue skinks, water dragons, monitors, larger geckos, turtles and insectivorous birds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot suitable for hatchlings or small juveniles, where the size and hard outer shell are a genuine impaction risk. Not suitable as a staple for any species, and not the right buy for a single animal, where the tub will outlast the sensible feeding rate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafety and welfare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms have strong mandibles and will bite. Offer them with tongs rather than fingers, and remove any that are not eaten instead of leaving them loose in an enclosure with a torpid animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub closed and out of reach of children, and wash hands after handling feeders or cleaning containers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGoes well with\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/exo-terra-calcium-d3-powder\"\u003eExo Terra Calcium + D3 Powder\u003c\/a\u003e — essential with a feeder this calcium-poor.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/zoo-med-stainless-steel-feeding-tongs-10\"\u003eZoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs\u003c\/a\u003e — the sensible way to offer a feeder that bites.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/black-soldier-fly-larvae-100g\"\u003eBlack Soldier Fly Larvae 100 g\u003c\/a\u003e — the calcium-positive feeder to rotate against superworms.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/superworms-20g\"\u003eSuperworms 20 g\u003c\/a\u003e — the small tub, better matched to a single animal.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLive arrival and delivery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLive feeders are supplied for in-store collection or posted Australia wide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eShould I buy the 20 g or the 100 g tub of superworms?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 100 g tub suits multiple animals or a regular rotation. For a single pet fed superworms as an occasional treat, the 20 g tub is the better match and will not sit around going to waste.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I keep superworms in the fridge like mealworms?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Superworms do not tolerate refrigeration and will die. Keep them at room temperature in a ventilated tub with bran bedding and a piece of vegetable for moisture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan superworms be a staple feeder?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Published figures put crude fat between 35 and 44 percent of dry matter, with a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio near 0.1:1, so superworms belong in a varied diet as a supplementary feeder rather than the main one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDo superworms bite?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYes. They have strong mandibles, so offer them with feeding tongs rather than fingers and remove any that are left uneaten in the enclosure.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Live Foods","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":55242285220131,"sku":"AA2343","price":26.95,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/files\/superworms-100g-43506992644387.webp?v=1790234084"},{"product_id":"superworms-40g","title":"Superworms 40g","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe middle tub, for a keeper feeding superworms more than occasionally.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms (\u003cem\u003eZophobas morio\u003c\/em\u003e) supplied live in a 40 g tub. This is the step up from the small tub — the size for two animals, or for one adult lizard fed superworms weekly rather than as a rare treat. They are large, fatty and eagerly taken, which makes portion control your job rather than the animal's.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich size do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeepers size feeders by a widely used rule of thumb: a feeder should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes. Judge width, not length.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms come in one larval grade, and it is a big one — tub size changes the quantity, never the size of the worm. If a superworm is wider than your animal's eye gap, change feeder rather than pack size, because too wide risks choking and impaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 40 g tub suits two animals, or one adult fed superworms about once a week alongside leaner insects and greens. Buy to your feeding rate rather than to the shelf — a tub that sits longer than a few weeks starts pupating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eNutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA peer-reviewed analysis of the species reports crude fat at 35.0 to 43.6 percent of dry matter. That is why superworms tempt an animal back onto food, and why they put weight on when fed routinely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe same analysis reports calcium at 31.9 to 70.8 mg per 100 g of dry matter against phosphorus at 562.9 to 564.9 mg — a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of roughly 0.06:1 to 0.13:1, where an insectivore needs closer to 2:1 the other way round. Fed undusted, that shortfall causes metabolic bone disease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGut-loading and dusting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGut-load for 24 to 48 hours on a calcium-rich food, then dust with calcium immediately before offering. A veterinary study that gut-loaded superworms on a high-calcium cricket feed measured a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of 1.46 at day two, falling to 0.67 by day seven — so gut-load the portion you are about to feed, not the whole tub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUse calcium with D3 where the animal has no UVB; where UVB is good, plain calcium is usually the better choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eKeeping them alive at home\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub at room temperature, out of direct sun, with the lid ventilated. Never refrigerate superworms — unlike mealworms they do not tolerate cold, and a night in the fridge will kill a tub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBran or oat bedding with a slice of carrot or potato covers food and moisture; replace the vegetable before it moulds. A worm that separates itself and curls up stiff is pupating into a beetle, not dying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSuitable for, and not suitable for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable for adult and larger juvenile bearded dragons, blue-tongue skinks, water dragons, monitors, larger geckos and turtles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot suitable for hatchlings or small juveniles, where the size and hard outer shell are a real impaction risk. Not suitable as a staple for any species, or for an animal already carrying too much weight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafety and welfare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms have strong mandibles and will bite. Offer them with tongs rather than fingers, and remove any that are not taken instead of leaving them loose with a resting animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the tub closed and out of reach of children, and wash hands after handling feeders or their containers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGoes well with\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/exo-terra-calcium-d3-powder\"\u003eExo Terra Calcium + D3 Powder\u003c\/a\u003e — not optional with a feeder this calcium-poor.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/zoo-med-stainless-steel-feeding-tongs-10\"\u003eZoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs\u003c\/a\u003e — the sensible way to offer a feeder that bites.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/black-soldier-fly-larvae-100g\"\u003eBlack Soldier Fly Larvae 100 g\u003c\/a\u003e — the calcium-positive feeder to rotate against superworms.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/superworms-20g\"\u003eSuperworms 20 g\u003c\/a\u003e — the small tub, for one animal fed superworms occasionally.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/superworms-100g\"\u003eSuperworms 100 g\u003c\/a\u003e — the bulk tub, for a multi-animal collection.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLive arrival and delivery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLive feeders are supplied for in-store collection or posted Australia wide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eAre the worms in the 40 g tub bigger than in the 20 g tub?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Superworms are supplied in a single larval grade, so every tub holds the same size worm — the 40 g tub simply holds about twice as many as the 20 g tub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat happens if I do not get through the tub?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuperworms kept crowded together stay as larvae, but individuals that separate out will pupate into darkling beetles. Beetles are harmless and no longer a feeder, so buy to the rate you actually feed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I feed my bearded dragon superworms every day?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. With crude fat at 35 to 44 percent of dry matter, daily superworms put weight on a dragon that should be eating leaner insects and greens. Once a week is a sensible ceiling for an adult.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDo superworms still need dusting if my reptile has UVB?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYes. UVB helps a reptile use calcium but does not add any, and superworms carry roughly one part calcium to every eight to sixteen parts phosphorus. Dust with plain calcium where UVB is good, and with calcium plus D3 where it is not.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Live Foods","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":55242285318435,"sku":"AA2342","price":11.95,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/files\/superworms-40g-43107185164579.webp?v=1790233226"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0972\/7236\/5347\/collections\/superworms-40g-3002367-1600.jpg?v=1788252871","url":"https:\/\/nicksaquariumoceanariumterrarium.com.au\/collections\/superworms-black-soldier-fly.oembed","provider":"Nicks AOT","version":"1.0","type":"link"}