Anubias Nana Petite Care Guide (Anubias barteri var. nana 'Petite')
Anubias barteri var. nana 'Petite' is the smallest anubias most hobbyists will ever meet: a dwarf selection with dark-green, almost leathery leaves barely the size of a fingernail, carried on a slow-creeping rhizome. Like every anubias it is an epiphyte (a plant that grows attached to wood or rock rather than rooted in the substrate), and it asks for very little – low light, no added carbon dioxide and ordinary, steady water – which makes it a favourite for nano tanks, shrimp aquariums and finely detailed hardscape where a full-sized plant would simply be too big.
1. Species Overview
'Petite' belongs to the arum family (Araceae) and is a cultivated dwarf form of Anubias barteri var. nana, itself a small variety of the West African species Anubias barteri. The parent plant grows in shaded, fast-flowing forest streams around Cameroon, but 'Petite' is a nursery cultivar whose exact origin is not firmly documented – some sources suggest it arose as a mutation in cultivation, possibly at a Singapore nursery – so Tropica simply lists its origin as "cultivar". A quick word on names: you will see this plant sold as Anubias barteri var. nana 'Petite', as Anubias barteri 'Petite' (Tropica's own label), and occasionally as 'Bonsai'. These are all the same plant, and we list it as Anubias Nana Petite. It is unmistakable in the trade for its size: tiny leaves roughly 1–3 cm long on a plant that tops out at only about 3–6 cm tall, with a rhizome (the thick horizontal stem that anubias and ferns grow from) of around 5–10 cm that branches freely into dense little clumps. Like most anubias it is usually grown emersed (with its leaves above the water) at the nursery, so a new plant often pauses for a few weeks before pushing out its first submersed leaves while the tough existing ones carry on unharmed.
2. Difficulty Level and Suitability
By any honest measure 'Petite' is one of the easiest aquarium plants there is, and the sources line up: Tropica rates it "easy", the Flowgrow and Aquasabi databases both call it "very easy", and Aquarium Co-Op treats it as thoroughly beginner-friendly. It wants neither bright light nor injected carbon dioxide, tolerates a wide spread of temperature and hardness, and its tough leaves are generally left alone by shrimp and most fish. Only two things really trip people up, and neither is about water chemistry. The first is algae: because the leaves are so small and grow so slowly, each one stays on the plant for many months, giving algae ample time to settle – a problem that gets noticeably worse under strong light. The second is the rhizome, which will rot if you bury it. Keep the light modest and the rhizome exposed and 'Petite' is close to indestructible, which is exactly why it suits nano tanks, shrimp setups and low-tech aquariums so well.
3. Water Parameters
Like all anubias, 'Petite' cares far more about steady, clean water than about hitting exact figures, so treat these as comfortable targets rather than strict limits. The reputable databases quote fairly wide bands, which reflects just how adaptable the plant is.
| Parameter | Target range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 22–28 °C | Very adaptable. Flowgrow gives an optimum of about 22–26 °C and, with Aquasabi, a tolerance from roughly 12 °C to 30 °C, so it copes with cooler unheated tanks and warm tropical ones alike; avoid sustained heat near 30 °C. |
| pH | 6.0–7.5 | Comfortable anywhere from soft and acidic to slightly alkaline; Flowgrow and Aquasabi list it across roughly pH 5–8. Steadiness matters more than the exact figure. |
| GH (general hardness) | 3–15 dGH | GH is the calcium and magnesium in the water. Exceptionally tolerant of soft or hard water – Aquasabi quotes a range as wide as 0–30 dGH – so almost any tap water suits it. |
| KH (carbonate hardness) | 1–15 dKH | KH is the water's buffering capacity. Undemanding; Flowgrow and Aquasabi list it happy across roughly 0–21 dKH. |
| Nutrients / substrate | Water-column / epiphyte feeder | Almost always attached to hardscape, so it feeds through its leaves and rhizome from the water column. A light all-round liquid fertiliser is plenty; it is not a root feeder, though it will grow with the rhizome resting on substrate as long as the rhizome stays uncovered. |
The main thing to watch is general water quality: keep it clean and well-filtered, with a little nitrate present for the plant to draw on. Sudden swings help nothing, so change water regularly and let new tanks mature before you expect much fresh growth.
4. Lighting Requirements
Low light is not merely tolerated by 'Petite' – it is the right choice. On the same PAR framework (PAR is photosynthetically active radiation, a measure of usable light reaching the plant) used in our coral guides, low light for plants is roughly 30–50 PAR, medium 50–80 and high 80 or more, and this little anubias sits firmly at the bottom of that scale. Tropica rates its light demand "low", Aquasabi notes it will grow under as little as 0.25 watts per litre, and while Flowgrow lists it as workable anywhere from low to high, brighter light brings no real benefit. Because the leaves grow so slowly, strong lighting does not speed the plant up; it simply hands algae a bright, long-lived surface to colonise. Give 'Petite' a shadier spot – tucked beside hardscape or beneath taller plants is ideal – and if you do move it into a brighter tank, raise the light gradually over a week or two so it can acclimatise.
5. CO₂ and Fertilisation
Plants grow by photosynthesis, using light to turn carbon dioxide and nutrients into new tissue, so more available carbon usually means faster growth. With 'Petite', extra carbon dioxide is firmly optional: Tropica rates its CO₂ demand "low", Aquasabi says it is not necessary, and Flowgrow notes the plant grows perfectly well without it while adding that a little CO₂ (it quotes a working range of about 5–40 mg/l) does make for more robust growth. This is precisely why the plant is a mainstay of low-tech and nano tanks. If you prefer a liquid carbon supplement, anubias is among the more tolerant plants and generally takes it well, but dose to the label rather than overdoing it. For feeding, a modest all-round liquid fertiliser in the water column is all it needs, and a little extra iron and trace element helps keep the small leaves a deep, healthy green and wards off the pale patches that tend to invite algae.
6. Planting and Placement
Here is the single most important rule for any anubias, and 'Petite' is no exception: never bury the rhizome. That thick horizontal stem is where the leaves and roots grow from, and Tropica is explicit that it must stay exposed or it will rot and take the plant with it. Treat 'Petite' as the epiphyte it is and attach it to hardscape – its tiny size makes it perfect for detailed work, so fix it to small stones, thin branches, driftwood crevices or bonsai-style trees where a full-sized anubias would look clumsy. Tie it on with cotton thread or fishing line until the roots grip, or fix the rhizome (never the roots) with a dab of aquarium-safe superglue gel. Resting it on the substrate is fine too, provided the roots go down while the rhizome sits on top, fully exposed. Being only 3–6 cm tall, it belongs in the foreground or midground of a nano tank, or as a fine foreground accent in a larger aquascape; grouped in several small clumps it slowly knits into a low, textured cushion. The same plants also grow happily emersed in paludariums and terrariums.
7. Growth Rate and Propagation
Even by anubias standards 'Petite' is a slow grower – noticeably slower than the standard nana – and every source agrees on this, so patience is essential. A healthy plant may add only a leaf every few weeks, and a freshly bought one can sit still for a month before it settles in. There is no way to rush it, and that is perfectly normal. Propagation is simple: once the rhizome has lengthened and carries several leaves, lift the plant and cut the rhizome into pieces with a clean, sharp blade, leaving each division at least three or four leaves and its own roots, then attach each piece to a fresh stone or branch. The plant branches readily on its own as well, gradually forming the dense little clumps it is prized for. Mature anubias occasionally push up a small arum-type flower (a spathe) even underwater, which is harmless and a sign of a contented plant, though on a plant this small it happens only rarely.
8. Common Issues and Troubleshooting
The problem every anubias keeper should know is anubias rot, sometimes called anubias melt. It shows as a rhizome that turns soft, mushy or squishy instead of firm and green, often with white, yellow, brown or black patches and leaves dropping away with soggy bases. Aquarium Co-Op notes the exact cause is still unclear – probably bacterial or fungal – that it resists almost all chemical treatments, and that it can even arrive on farmed plants, though a buried rhizome, physical damage and the move from emersed to submersed growth all make it likelier. The fix is surgical, not chemical: cut well back into firm, green tissue with a sterile blade, discard everything soft, and replant the sound sections with the rhizome exposed. The other common gripe, and it hits 'Petite' harder than most, is algae on the leaves. Because each tiny leaf lives for many months, green spot algae and black beard algae have ample time to settle, and Flowgrow specifically flags this variety as prone to green spot algae under strong light – especially where phosphate, iron and trace nutrients are short. Keep the light low, keep 'Petite' out of the direct path of a filter outlet, maintain a modest but steady supply of nutrients, and trim away badly fouled old leaves so cleaner new growth can take over. Finally, pale, yellowing or holed leaves usually point to a nutrient shortfall rather than disease and respond to modest dosing with an iron or trace supplement, while a little melting of the oldest leaves just after purchase is simply the plant converting from emersed to submersed growth and nothing to worry about.
A Note on the Ranges Above
The parameters and other figures in this guide are a general guideline only. Every planted aquarium is different, and the ideal balance for your Anubias Nana Petite depends on your lighting, your substrate, your other plants and whether you run CO₂. For help working out tank volume and the right dose of fertiliser, plant food and treatments for your system, have a look at our Aquarium Calculators.
Disclaimer
This guide is provided for general educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for professional advice, and we cannot guarantee outcomes. Individual plants vary, and the right conditions for your system depend on your lighting, your equipment and the other livestock and plants you keep. If you are unsure about anything, please get in touch with our team before proceeding.