Deep orange bulbous tentacles packed into a tight dome, with faint green at the bases. You are buying the exact anemone in the photo.

Bringing constant, gentle movement to a reef tank, the Rose Bubble Tip Anemone is the rose colour form of Entacmaea quadricolor and acts as a natural host for clownfish. It is the most forgiving of the true host anemones and the usual starting point for keepers moving on from corals, but it still needs a mature and stable tank to settle properly, so avoid placing it in a newly cycled system.

Entacmaea quadricolor occurs across the tropical Indo-Pacific and Red Sea, including the Great Barrier Reef, and much of the stock available in Australia is locally collected or aquacultured. Wild animals take two forms: large solitary individuals in deeper, dimmer water, and clusters of smaller animals on bright shallow reef flats showing the classic bulbed tentacles. In both cases the foot is anchored deep inside a crack in the rock with only the tentacles exposed, and reproducing that arrangement is the key to it settling in the aquarium.

Tentacles are moderately long and swell into a bulb just below the tip when the animal is comfortable, but the bubbling waxes and wanes with lighting, flow, feeding and clownfish activity. A healthy anemone can run stringy for weeks then bulb again, so do not treat it as a health check. This morph shows deep rose to orange tentacles, often with a fluorescent quality under blue-weighted lighting, above a paler column. A mature disc reaches roughly 30 cm across.

Semi-aggressive. Any coral it contacts will be stung and burned back, and the real complication with anemones in a mixed reef is mobility. Expect a newly added animal to roam for days or weeks until it finds a crevice it likes, and to move again if lighting, flow or water quality shifts. Allow at least 20 cm of clear space around it, keep it well away from prized LPS and SPS, and guard every powerhead, return and overflow intake before adding it. An anemone pulled into an unguarded pump is the most common cause of loss and can foul an entire system.

Photosynthetic, drawing the bulk of its energy from symbiotic zooxanthellae, which makes lighting part of feeding rather than decoration. On top of that, target feed meaty foods once or twice a week: chopped prawn, mussel, silverside or fortified mysis, in pieces the tentacles can fold around. A resident clownfish will frequently carry food to the anemone unprompted. Avoid overfeeding, as uneaten food decaying in the disc does more damage than a skipped feed.

A minimum of 100 L is needed, with 200 L or larger recommended so the anemone can relocate without reaching your corals. Keep temperature at 24-27 °C, pH 8.1-8.4 and salinity 1.024-1.026. Provide moderate to high lighting of roughly 150-250 PAR at the animal, raised gradually over several weeks rather than all at once. Moderate, turbulent flow is ideal; avoid pointing a pump directly at it. Give it rockwork with crevices plus a sandbed and let it choose its own spot rather than forcing placement. A mature, fully cycled and chemically stable aquarium is essential, and this is not a species for a tank under six months old. Reef safe with caution.

Bubble tips are among the few anemones that reproduce readily in captivity. A healthy animal splits by longitudinal fission into two genetically identical clones, often following a change in conditions or a heavy feed, and this is how most aquacultured stock is produced. Sexual reproduction is by broadcast spawning, recorded between January and April in eastern Australian waters, but the resulting pelagic larvae are not practical to rear at home.

No host anemone is accepted by more clownfish than the bubble tip, which suits roughly half of all anemonefish species. Reliable partners include maroon clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus), tomato (Amphiprion frenatus), red and black (A. melanopus), Clark's (A. clarkii) and the Australian barrier reef anemonefish (A. akindynos). Ocellaris and percula clownfish commonly accept one in an aquarium, though less readily than a magnificent anemone. Beyond clownfish it mixes well with tangs, wrasses, rabbitfish, anthias, gobies and blennies where the tank is big enough that fish are not forced into the tentacles.

Avoid ornamental shrimp and very small or weak-swimming fish, which risk being caught. Keep it clear of LPS, SPS and soft corals it could contact, and do not crowd it against other anemone species, which compete chemically. It is unsuitable for newly cycled tanks, low-light systems, aquariums with unstable nutrients or salinity, and any tank with unguarded powerheads.

As with all our marine livestock, this is a WYSIWYG listing, so the exact specimen pictured is the one you will receive. In-store collection and local delivery are both available. Not sure it is the right fit for your reef? Just ask, we are always happy to help you choose.

See how Rose Bubble Tip Anemone XL | Entacmaea quadricolor gets along with the rest of your tank. Our Aquarium Compatibility Checker scores tank size, aggression, diet and water type against everything else you're keeping.

Open the Compatibility Checker for Rose Bubble Tip Anemone XL | Entacmaea quadricolor →

Is your tank ready?

A few quick checks before you buy save most of the common losses.

Tank size for the adult, not the juvenile

Check the species page for max size and minimum tank size, and size your tank for what this animal will grow into — not what it looks like today.

Cycle first

Your tank needs an established nitrogen cycle before livestock goes in. Adding fish to an uncycled tank is one of the most common causes of early losses.

Match the conditions

Check temperature and pH on the species page against what your tank currently runs, and make sure you've got the right gear — a heater for tropical species, adequate filtration turnover, lighting and CO2 for planted tanks, or the right salinity setup for marine.

Start conservative

New to the hobby? Start with a small number of hardy species and add slowly — overstocking a new tank is one of the fastest ways to crash your water quality.

Ready to place your first order? See our Buying Livestock Online — Start Here guide for the full walkthrough of packing, delivery, arrival day and acclimation.

Where we ship

We are based in Brisbane and ship live fish and corals to most of Australia. Some states have import rules that may affect what we can send and the cost.

• Western Australia: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Tasmania: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Northern Territory: May require a permit and be subject to quarantine.
• Regional and remote areas: Carrier options can be limited, which may affect service and transit time.

If you are unsure we can reach your location, please contact us before ordering.

A note on timing: All transit times are estimates and can vary with your location, the weather, and carrier schedules. Regional and remote areas may take longer. To give your livestock the safest trip, please order early in the week.

Live Fish

• Oxygen-filled bags — each fish is bagged in clean water from its own system with a generous charge of pure oxygen, giving many hours of safe transit time.
• Double or triple bagging — spiny or sharp-finned species (catfish, plecos, marine oddballs) are multi-bagged with liners so a spine can't cause a leak.
• Dark, calm transit — bags are packed upright in the dark, which keeps fish calm and lowers their oxygen use during the trip.

Live Corals & Inverts

• Individually bagged or cupped — each coral travels in its own bag or rigid cup of system water, sized so the piece can't knock against the sides.
• Frags secured — frag plugs are held so they can't tumble or land face-down against the polyps.
• Inverts packed to species — shrimp, snails, starfish and anemones each get the packing method that suits them, not a one-size-fits-all bag.

Live Plants & Tissue Cultures

• Moist, not swimming — plants travel wrapped in damp paper inside sealed bags, which prevents both drying out and rot in transit.
• Tissue culture cups sealed — cultures stay in their sterile cups, cushioned so lids can't pop.

The Box

• Insulated foam boxes — all livestock ships in polystyrene-lined cartons to hold temperature steady.
• Heat or cool packs by season — we add heat packs in winter and cool packs in summer heat waves, based on the forecast for your delivery route.
• Void fill and bracing — bags are braced so nothing shifts, even if the box travels on its side.

When Your Box Arrives

Open the box promptly, check everyone in, and follow our Acclimation Guide before releasing anything into your tank. If something has gone wrong in transit, take photos of the unopened bags straight away and see our Live Fish Arrival Guarantee for what to do next.

Questions about packing or shipping to your area? Email us at sales@nicksaquariumoceanariumterrarium.com.au — we're always happy to talk through it before you order.

Dead on Arrival (DOA) Cover

DOA cover applies only to livestock shipped by air freight. It gives you peace of mind that eligible animals are covered if they arrive deceased. Full terms are in our Live Fish Arrive Guarantee.

How to make a claim

• Take clear photos or video of the deceased livestock in the sealed, unopened inner bag.
• If double bagged, you may remove the outer bag, but the inner bag must stay sealed.
• Take individual photos or video of each animal once unbagged, where applicable.
• Send your claim by email or text message within 4 hours of receiving your order. Claims by Facebook Messenger or phone cannot be accepted, and claims made after 4 hours may be declined.
• Please include: your name, order number, approximate time received, number of bags affected, and quantity of livestock affected.

If your claim is approved

We will offer store credit or a replacement of the same item, subject to availability. Replacement shipping is covered only if more than 50 percent of your order arrives DOA. Shipping charges and fees are non-refundable.

To keep your cover valid

Be present at the airport or at home to receive your order, and collect it promptly. Livestock left unattended, returned to a depot, or delayed in collection may void cover. We can only ship to a valid residential or business address, not PO boxes or third-party addresses.

Why quarantine

Quarantining new arrivals before they go into your main tank protects the fish you already have from disease, and gives new stock time to settle and start feeding under close observation.

Freshwater Fish

• Duration: 2 to 4 weeks in a bare-bottom tank with a cycled sponge filter.
• Watch for: white spots, flicking or scratching, laboured breathing, clamped fins, and loss of appetite, checked twice daily.
• Medication: only if a problem appears — quarantine is for observation, not routine treatment.

Marine Fish

• Duration: around 4 weeks minimum.
• Options: observation only, a copper treatment held at 2.0 to 2.5 ppm for at least 30 days, or the Tank Transfer Method (four transfers over about 12 days).
• Flukes and worms: treated with praziquantel, with a repeat dose about a week after the first.

Full details: see our Fish Quarantine Guide, and our Freshwater Fish Quarantining at Home and Marine Fish Quarantining at Home guides, for tank setup, dosing, and day-by-day steps.

Before you start

Test your aquarium water, gather a clean bucket and net, and dim the room lights. Never pour transport bag water into your aquarium — always net your livestock out and discard the bag water, since acclimating too quickly after CO2 build-up in the bag can make trapped ammonia rapidly more toxic.

Freshwater Fish

Float the sealed bag for about 15 minutes to match temperature, then open it into a bucket and add roughly a cup of aquarium water every 5 minutes for about 45 minutes. Net the fish into the tank, keep the lights off for the rest of the day, and hold off feeding until the next day.

Marine Fish

Use the same cup method as freshwater fish, but keep the lights off or dimmed for at least 12 hours after introduction, and hold off feeding until the next day. We recommend quarantining marine fish before adding them to your display.

Corals, Clams & Invertebrates

• Drip acclimation is recommended: 1 to 2 drops per second until the bucket volume has at least doubled, around 45 minutes for fish-safe inverts and 60 to 90 minutes for corals and clams. Echinoderms such as starfish, urchins and sea cucumbers need the slowest acclimation of all.
• Handle corals and clams by their base, skeleton or frag plug only — never the soft tissue, polyps or mantle.
• Light acclimation: place new corals low in the tank away from strong light and flow for the first few days, then raise them gradually over 1 to 2 weeks.

Full details: see our Acclimation Guide for the complete drip and cup methods and coral dipping.