Carpet pythons (Morelia spilota) are one of Australia's most popular and rewarding snakes, and our range spans several of the country's most distinctive subspecies. Each has its own look, but all share the same fundamental care requirements covered in this guide.
The subspecies we stock include:
- Coastal Carpet Python (M. s. mcdowelli) - Queensland's most common carpet python, typically brown and olive with cream patterning. Adults commonly reach 2 to 3 metres, making this the largest of the subspecies we stock.
- Murray-Darling Carpet Python (M. s. metcalfei) - a cooler-climate subspecies from inland river country with muted, earthy tones. Typically 1.5 to 2.5 metres.
- Jungle Carpet Python (M. s. cheynei) - from Queensland's Wet Tropics, striking black and yellow colouring. Typically 1.5 to 2 metres.
- Darwin Carpet Python (M. s. variegata) - from northern Australia, beautifully patterned in blotches. Typically 1.5 to 2 metres.
All are non-venomous constrictors and require a wildlife keeper's licence in Queensland. See our Queensland Reptile Licence Guide.
Before You Set Up
Have the enclosure running at the correct temperatures before the snake arrives. A carpet python arriving into an unheated or incomplete setup will be stressed, may refuse food for weeks, and will take far longer to settle. Set up first, then buy your snake.
Enclosure
Carpet pythons are semi-arboreal and benefit from vertical space and climbing opportunities as well as floor space. A single adult Coastal Carpet needs a minimum of around 120 x 60 x 60 cm (4 x 2 x 2 ft), and larger is always better, particularly for Coastal subspecies that can exceed 2 metres. Smaller subspecies such as Jungle and Darwin are comfortable in an enclosure around 120 x 60 x 60 cm.
Provide sturdy climbing branches or a solid shelf, at least two hides (one on the warm end, one on the cool end), and a large, stable water bowl. The most important principle for hides is that the snake should never have to choose between security and the correct temperature: two hides at opposite ends solve this. Use a secure, escape-proof lid. Substrate options include quality bark, aspen bedding, or newspaper.
Hatchlings and juveniles benefit from a smaller, snug space in their first months. A secure tub or small enclosure helps them feel confident and feed reliably before transitioning to their adult enclosure.
Browse our enclosures and reptile supplies.
Heating
Carpet pythons are ectotherms and depend entirely on their environment to regulate body temperature. A proper gradient across the enclosure is essential for digestion and immune function.
- Basking or warm zone: 32 to 34°C
- Warm ambient (middle of enclosure): 26 to 29°C
- Cool end: 22 to 24°C
- Night: a drop to the low-to-mid 20s°C is fine for healthy adults. Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons are more cold-tolerant and may naturally experience cooler temperatures in line with their inland Australian origin, but sustained temperatures below 18°C should be avoided.
Use ceramic heat emitters or infrared globes as the main heat source. These provide heat without disrupting the snake's day/night cycle and can run continuously if needed. Always connect every heat source to a thermostat and verify temperatures with a thermometer at each end of the enclosure. Browse our heating and thermostat range.
Humidity
Carpet pythons do not need high humidity. An ambient humidity of around 40 to 60% is ideal. Constantly high humidity promotes bacterial skin infections and respiratory problems. If you need to boost humidity briefly around a shed cycle, occasional light misting is fine. Allow the enclosure to dry out between sessions rather than keeping it perpetually damp.
Lighting and UVB
Carpet pythons are largely nocturnal and do not require UVB lighting to survive. Low-level UVB is considered beneficial for general health and can be provided with a 5.0 UVB tube on a 12-hour day/night cycle. Turn all lighting off at night. Even without dedicated UVB, a regular light cycle using ambient room lighting or a basic fluorescent helps maintain the snake's natural rhythm.
Feeding
Feed frozen-thawed rodents only. Never feed live prey: live rodents can bite, scratch and seriously injure a python, and there is no benefit to the snake in using live food over a properly thawed-and-presented frozen meal.
Choose prey that is roughly the same width as the snake's thickest point. A snake can take larger prey if it chooses but oversized meals increase the risk of regurgitation.
- Hatchlings and juveniles: every 7 days, starting on pinkie rats or mouse fuzzies and progressing as they grow.
- Adults: every 14 to 21 days. Feeding adult carpet pythons more frequently than fortnightly leads to obesity, which shortens lifespan and causes a range of health problems. A healthy adult carpet is lean and muscular, not heavy and sluggish.
Thaw prey completely to room temperature or slightly above before offering. Using long tongs to present food is good practice with larger carpet pythons, and a snake hook to approach the snake before feeding signals that you are not prey. Do not handle for at least 48 hours after a meal.
Provide fresh water at all times in a bowl large enough for the snake to soak in. Browse our frozen feeders.
Handling and Temperament
The reputation that carpet pythons are aggressive is largely unfounded. Most are settled, inquisitive snakes that handle well once established. Hatchlings can be defensive and may bluff-strike, but most calm down significantly within the first year. With larger adults, most defensive responses or accidental bites are feeding-related errors. Using a snake hook to lift the snake out of its enclosure, particularly near feeding time, signals that it is not feeding time and avoids the majority of these incidents.
Give a new snake at least a week to settle before handling. Keep early sessions short, support the full body, and avoid handling for 48 hours after feeding and during a shed cycle.
Quick Reference
| Parameter | Target |
|---|---|
| Adult size (varies by subspecies) | 1.5 to 3 metres |
| Lifespan | 20+ years |
| Enclosure (adult) | 120 x 60 x 60 cm minimum |
| Basking zone | 32 to 34°C |
| Warm ambient | 26 to 29°C |
| Cool end | 22 to 24°C |
| Night minimum | Low to mid 20s°C (above 18°C) |
| Humidity | 40 to 60% |
| UVB | Optional but beneficial (5.0, low intensity) |
| Feeding (juvenile) | Every 7 days, frozen-thawed |
| Feeding (adult) | Every 14 to 21 days, frozen-thawed |
Shop
- Enclosures and Reptile Supplies
- Heating and Thermostats
- UVB Lighting
- Substrate and Decor
- Frozen Feeders
If you have questions about setup or choosing the right carpet python subspecies for your experience level, our team is always happy to help.
Disclaimer
This guide is provided for general educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Individual animals vary and outcomes cannot be guaranteed. Always consult a qualified reptile vet for health concerns. A Queensland wildlife keeper's licence is required to purchase and keep all carpet python subspecies.
