Common Thick-tailed Gecko Underwoodisaurus milii

In the wild it is widespread across southern Australia, sheltering by day under rocks, logs and in burrows across rocky outcrops, open woodland and semi-arid country, and emerging at night to hunt. Natural origin for this listing is southern Australia. The enclosure should recreate a dry floor with a clear temperature gradient, cave-like hides and a slightly damp retreat rather than a humid, planted set-up.

A healthy gecko is deep purple-brown to reddish-brown, often scattered with pale yellow or white spots, with a thick tail used to store fat, clear eyes and good body condition. Adult size is generally 12–14 cm total length, so the animal should never be purchased only for its current size.

Temperament is best described as bold and defensive; when startled it stands tall, waves its tail and gives its distinctive bark, though it usually settles with gentle, regular handling. Adults are best housed singly or as a compatible pair, as two males will fight and mixing sizes risks bullying.

Feed as an insectivore; live insects such as appropriately sized crickets, woodies and black soldier fly larvae. Dust feeders with a calcium supplement and use a reptile multivitamin as directed, and gut-load feeders before offering. Feed juveniles every one to two days and adults every three to four days, never offering prey larger than the space between the eyes.

A single adult needs a minimum terrestrial enclosure of about 45 x 45 x 30 cm with plenty of floor space, larger for a pair. Provide a warm end of 28–32°C and a cooler end of 22–26°C, with a night-time drop to around 18–20°C; heat is best supplied by a low-wattage globe or heat mat on a thermostat. UVB is not essential for this nocturnal species, though a low 2–5% level is beneficial. Keep humidity low, around 30–50%, but always provide a humid hide to aid shedding. Use a firm, non-impaction substrate and furnish with flat rocks, cork and cave hides and a shallow water dish, spot-cleaning regularly.

Breeding is achieved after a cool winter rest that cycles the adults; females then lay clutches of two eggs, often several times a season, incubated in a moist medium. The first clutch of a young female is often infertile. Breeding should only be attempted by prepared, licensed keepers.

Best kept alone or as a single compatible pair of Common Thick-tailed Geckos in a suitably sized enclosure.

Do not house two or more males together, do not mix sizes, and do not keep with other gecko or reptile species.

Size options reflect the sizes we stock; any shown as sold out will return as we restock. Australian livestock for in-store collection or local delivery, with our live arrival guarantee. A reptile keeper's licence is required to buy and keep native reptiles and amphibians in most Australian states - please ensure you hold the appropriate licence for your state before purchasing.

Most reptiles and frogs are solitary and shouldn't be housed together without species-specific advice – even similar-looking animals can stress or injure each other. Check this species' care sheet above, or contact us before combining species in one enclosure.

Is your enclosure ready?

A few quick checks before you buy save most of the common problems with new reptiles and frogs.

Size for the adult, not the juvenile

Check the species page for adult size and minimum enclosure size, and set up for what this animal will grow into – not what it looks like today.

Heating & temperature zones

Set up proper heating on a thermostat before your animal arrives, with the correct hot and cool zone temperatures for the species – check the species page for the exact range.

UVB lighting

Most reptiles need the correct UVB tube for their species. Replace tubes on the manufacturer's schedule even if they still look fine – UVB output drops off well before the globe visibly fails.

Humidity & misting

Dial in humidity and, if the species needs it, a misting routine before your animal arrives rather than adjusting it after.

Licence & permits

Keeping a native Australian species requires a valid wildlife licence. We can't dispatch until your licence and any required permits are verified, so sort this out before you order.

Full details: see our Reptile & Amphibian Purchasing Policy and our Reptile Care Sheets for species-specific setup guides.

Where we ship

We are based in Brisbane and ship live fish and corals to most of Australia. Some states have import rules that may affect what we can send and the cost.

• Western Australia: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Tasmania: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Northern Territory: May require a permit and be subject to quarantine.
• Regional and remote areas: Carrier options can be limited, which may affect service and transit time.

If you are unsure we can reach your location, please contact us before ordering.

A note on timing: All transit times are estimates and can vary with your location, the weather, and carrier schedules. Regional and remote areas may take longer. To give your livestock the safest trip, please order early in the week.

Secure, Ventilated Boxes

Each animal travels in a secure, well-ventilated box or breathable bag appropriate to its species and size, so it stays safely contained with adequate airflow for the whole journey – a different process to how we pack fish, corals and plants.

No Room to Move

Any empty space inside the box is filled with packing materials such as paper or bubble wrap, so containers stay secure and can't shift in transit.

Clearly Labelled

Every box is sealed with our custom packing tape and clearly labelled as livestock, so freight handlers know exactly what they're carrying.

When Your Animal Arrives

Please collect your animal promptly on arrival and allow it to settle quietly in its prepared enclosure before handling.

Questions about packing or shipping to your area? Email us at sales@nicksaquariumoceanariumterrarium.com.au – we're always happy to talk through it before you order.

Arrive Alive Guarantee (DOA & DAA)

Reptiles and frogs are covered by the same Arrive Alive Guarantee as the rest of our livestock. This applies to air freight shipments only.

Dead on Arrival (DOA)

If your animal arrives deceased, take clear photos or video in the sealed, unopened travel box or bag, and send your claim by email or text message within 4 hours of receiving your order. Claims by Facebook Messenger or phone cannot be accepted, and claims made after 4 hours may be declined. Please include your name, order number, approximate time received, and details of the animal affected.

Death After Arrival (DAA)

DAA cover extends up to 12 hours after airport pickup. Clear photos or video are required, submitted within 24 hours of delivery, and the animal must have been housed in a fully set up, correctly heated enclosure.

If your claim is approved

We will offer store credit or a replacement of the same item, subject to availability. Shipping charges and fees are non-refundable.

To keep your cover valid

Be present at the airport or at home to receive your order, and collect it promptly. Animals left unattended, returned to a depot, or delayed in collection may void cover. We can only ship to a valid residential or business address, not PO boxes or third-party addresses.

7-Day Reptile Health Guarantee

On top of Arrive Alive cover, reptiles get an additional 7-day health guarantee that fish don't have. All reptiles are assessed before sale and confirmed eating, drinking and behaving normally. If a major health issue is confirmed by a vet to have been present before sale, we'll offer a refund or a replacement of equal value.

• Get a full veterinary exam within 7 days of purchase, with a detailed written report – a reptile specialist vet is strongly recommended.
• Vet costs are the buyer's responsibility.
• Not covered: issues caused by incorrect temperature or humidity, enclosure setup, inadequate quarantine, transport stress, or reptile viral diseases (these aren't tested for prior to sale).

Full terms: see our Guarantees & Policies page (sections 1 and 3).

Why quarantine

Quarantining a new reptile or frog in an isolated area away from your existing collection protects the animals you already keep, and gives your new arrival time to settle in without added stress.

Recommended approach

Keep the new animal in a separate room or enclosure from your existing collection, and wash your hands (or change gloves) between handling different animals to avoid cross-contamination.

Vet check

A full veterinary exam within the first week is a good idea for any new reptile or frog, and it's required if you ever need to make a claim under our 7-Day Reptile Health Guarantee.

Full details: see our Reptile Health Guarantee Policy and Reptile Care Sheets.

Before your animal arrives

The enclosure must be fully set up and running at the correct temperature, UVB output and humidity before your animal comes home – not almost set up, fully running and verified with thermometers. An animal arriving into an enclosure that's still warming up, or with an untested UVB lamp, starts its time with you under unnecessary stress.

Settling in

Place your animal directly into its enclosure as calmly and quickly as possible, with minimal handling. Leave it completely undisturbed for five to seven days – no handling, no rearranging, no repeatedly opening the enclosure to check on it (brief visual checks from a distance are fine). Hold off feeding for the first 48 to 72 hours, and keep the room quiet during this period – noise, vibration and foot traffic near the enclosure all delay settling.

Frogs

Frogs absorb water and chemicals directly through their skin, so never handle a frog with dry hands or hands with soap, sunscreen, insect repellent or lotion on them – use clean, wet, powder-free hands or powder-free gloves. Always dechlorinate any water that goes into a frog enclosure, including misting water. The five-to-seven-day settling-in rule applies especially firmly to frogs, and most will spend the first several days hidden and motionless – this is normal.

Axolotls

Axolotls need cool water between 14 and 18°C and start experiencing serious stress above 20°C – anything above 22°C is dangerous. Confirm your tank temperature is in range with a thermometer before your axolotl arrives, and dechlorinate all water, since their permeable skin absorbs substances directly from it.

Full details: see our Acclimation Guide for species-specific setup, and our Reptile Care Sheets and Frog Care Sheets.