Frog Fish Antennarius sp.

Frogfish are found across tropical Indo-Pacific reefs, on rubble slopes, sponge gardens and among live rock, where their camouflage lets them disappear against sponges, algae and coral. They are not strong swimmers; instead they "walk" over the bottom on modified, limb-like pectoral and pelvic fins, waiting in ambush. In the aquarium they do best in a mature system with plenty of live rock, caves and stable perches that let them settle in one favoured spot and survey their surroundings.

Frogfish are masters of disguise, with a globular, laterally compressed body, an enormous upward-facing mouth and skin that may be smooth or covered in wart-like bumps and filaments. Colour is highly variable and can shift over days to match the surroundings - yellow, orange, red, brown, cream or black are all common. On the forehead sits the illicium, a modified first dorsal spine tipped with a lure (esca) that the fish wiggles to attract prey. Healthy specimens sit alert and upright, gill up normally and show interest in movement nearby.

Temperament is best described as predatory but sedentary. A frogfish will not chase or harass tankmates, but it will eat any fish or shrimp small enough to fit in its remarkably expandable mouth - which is often larger than the fish itself. It is not aggressive in the territorial sense, but it is a committed carnivore. House it only with tankmates far too large to be swallowed, or keep it as a solitary species display. It generally ignores corals and other sessile invertebrates.

Feeding is meaty and infrequent. In the wild frogfish eat fish and crustaceans, and in captivity they should be offered chunky marine foods such as pieces of fish flesh, prawn, squid and whitebait. Many arrive expecting live food and can be weaned onto thawed frozen items dangled and twitched on feeding tongs to mimic live prey. Feed a substantial meal only every three to five days - adult frogfish are easily overfed. Avoid freshwater feeder fish such as goldfish and guppies, as a long-term diet of these leads to fatty liver disease.

Provide a minimum aquarium of around 75 L for the smaller species, with 200 L or more recommended for larger individuals and better water stability. Maintain temperature at 24-27°C, pH 8.1-8.4 and salinity around 1.020-1.026. Frogfish prefer gentle to moderate flow and subdued lighting, with plenty of live rock, ledges and caves to perch on. Because they eat large meals and can foul the water, efficient filtration, good protein skimming and regular water changes are important. A secure lid is sensible. Handle with care and never lift them out of water in a net, as air can become trapped in the gills.

Breeding frogfish in the home aquarium is very rare. In nature the female releases a floating raft of eggs that drifts in the plankton before hatching, and rearing the tiny larvae requires specialised live foods and dedicated systems well beyond typical home setups. For almost all keepers the goal is a healthy, well-fed single specimen rather than any attempt at captive breeding.

Suitable companions are limited to fish far too large to be eaten, such as large angels, big tangs, large wrasses or other robust fish that cannot fit in the frogfish's mouth. In truth, a solitary species display is often the safest and most rewarding way to keep one.

Avoid keeping with any small or medium fish, clownfish, damsels, gobies, firefish, ornamental shrimp and small crustaceans, all of which are likely to be eaten. Also avoid fast, aggressive fish that may harass a slow-moving, sedentary predator.

See how Frog Fish | Antennarius sp. gets along with the rest of your tank. Our Aquarium Compatibility Checker scores tank size, aggression, diet and water type against everything else you're keeping.

Open the Compatibility Checker for Frog Fish | Antennarius sp. →

Is your tank ready?

A few quick checks before you buy save most of the common losses.

Tank size for the adult, not the juvenile

Check the species page for max size and minimum tank size, and size your tank for what this animal will grow into – not what it looks like today.

Cycle first

Your tank needs an established nitrogen cycle before livestock goes in. Adding fish to an uncycled tank is one of the most common causes of early losses.

Match the conditions

Check temperature and pH on the species page against what your tank currently runs, and make sure you've got the right gear – a heater for tropical species, adequate filtration turnover, lighting and CO2 for planted tanks, or the right salinity setup for marine.

Start conservative

New to the hobby? Start with a small number of hardy species and add slowly – overstocking a new tank is one of the fastest ways to crash your water quality.

Ready to place your first order? See our Buying Livestock Online – Start Here guide for the full walkthrough of packing, delivery, arrival day and acclimation.

Where we ship

We are based in Brisbane and ship live fish and corals to most of Australia. Some states have import rules that may affect what we can send and the cost.

• Western Australia: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Tasmania: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Northern Territory: May require a permit and be subject to quarantine.
• Regional and remote areas: Carrier options can be limited, which may affect service and transit time.

If you are unsure we can reach your location, please contact us before ordering.

A note on timing: All transit times are estimates and can vary with your location, the weather, and carrier schedules. Regional and remote areas may take longer. To give your livestock the safest trip, please order early in the week.

Live Fish

• Oxygen-filled bags – each fish is bagged in clean water from its own system with a generous charge of pure oxygen, giving many hours of safe transit time.
• Double or triple bagging – spiny or sharp-finned species (catfish, plecos, marine oddballs) are multi-bagged with liners so a spine can't cause a leak.
• Dark, calm transit – bags are packed upright in the dark, which keeps fish calm and lowers their oxygen use during the trip.

Live Corals & Inverts

• Individually bagged or cupped – each coral travels in its own bag or rigid cup of system water, sized so the piece can't knock against the sides.
• Frags secured – frag plugs are held so they can't tumble or land face-down against the polyps.
• Inverts packed to species – shrimp, snails, starfish and anemones each get the packing method that suits them, not a one-size-fits-all bag.

Live Plants & Tissue Cultures

• Moist, not swimming – plants travel wrapped in damp paper inside sealed bags, which prevents both drying out and rot in transit.
• Tissue culture cups sealed – cultures stay in their sterile cups, cushioned so lids can't pop.

The Box

• Insulated foam boxes – all livestock ships in polystyrene-lined cartons to hold temperature steady.
• Heat or cool packs by season – we add heat packs in winter and cool packs in summer heat waves, based on the forecast for your delivery route.
• Void fill and bracing – bags are braced so nothing shifts, even if the box travels on its side.

When Your Box Arrives

Open the box promptly, check everyone in, and follow our Acclimation Guide before releasing anything into your tank. If something has gone wrong in transit, take photos of the unopened bags straight away and see our Live Fish Arrival Guarantee for what to do next.

Questions about packing or shipping to your area? Email us at sales@nicksaquariumoceanariumterrarium.com.au – we're always happy to talk through it before you order.

Dead on Arrival (DOA) Cover

DOA cover applies only to livestock shipped by air freight. It gives you peace of mind that eligible animals are covered if they arrive deceased. Full terms are in our Live Fish Arrive Guarantee.

How to make a claim

• Take clear photos or video of the deceased livestock in the sealed, unopened inner bag.
• If double bagged, you may remove the outer bag, but the inner bag must stay sealed.
• Take individual photos or video of each animal once unbagged, where applicable.
• Send your claim by email or text message within 4 hours of receiving your order. Claims by Facebook Messenger or phone cannot be accepted, and claims made after 4 hours may be declined.
• Please include: your name, order number, approximate time received, number of bags affected, and quantity of livestock affected.

If your claim is approved

We will offer store credit or a replacement of the same item, subject to availability. Replacement shipping is covered only if more than 50 percent of your order arrives DOA. Shipping charges and fees are non-refundable.

To keep your cover valid

Be present at the airport or at home to receive your order, and collect it promptly. Livestock left unattended, returned to a depot, or delayed in collection may void cover. We can only ship to a valid residential or business address, not PO boxes or third-party addresses.

Why quarantine

Quarantining new arrivals before they go into your main tank protects the fish you already have from disease, and gives new stock time to settle and start feeding under close observation.

Freshwater Fish

• Duration: 2 to 4 weeks in a bare-bottom tank with a cycled sponge filter.
• Watch for: white spots, flicking or scratching, laboured breathing, clamped fins, and loss of appetite, checked twice daily.
• Medication: only if a problem appears – quarantine is for observation, not routine treatment.

Marine Fish

• Duration: around 4 weeks minimum.
• Options: observation only, a copper treatment held at 2.0 to 2.5 ppm for at least 30 days, or the Tank Transfer Method (four transfers over about 12 days).
• Flukes and worms: treated with praziquantel, with a repeat dose about a week after the first.

Full details: see our Fish Quarantine Guide, and our Freshwater Fish Quarantining at Home and Marine Fish Quarantining at Home guides, for tank setup, dosing, and day-by-day steps.

Before you start

Test your aquarium water, gather a clean bucket and net, and dim the room lights. Never pour transport bag water into your aquarium – always net your livestock out and discard the bag water, since acclimating too quickly after CO2 build-up in the bag can make trapped ammonia rapidly more toxic.

Freshwater Fish

Float the sealed bag for about 15 minutes to match temperature, then open it into a bucket and add roughly a cup of aquarium water every 5 minutes for about 45 minutes. Net the fish into the tank, keep the lights off for the rest of the day, and hold off feeding until the next day.

Marine Fish

Use the same cup method as freshwater fish, but keep the lights off or dimmed for at least 12 hours after introduction, and hold off feeding until the next day. We recommend quarantining marine fish before adding them to your display.

Corals, Clams & Invertebrates

• Drip acclimation is recommended: 1 to 2 drops per second until the bucket volume has at least doubled, around 45 minutes for fish-safe inverts and 60 to 90 minutes for corals and clams. Echinoderms such as starfish, urchins and sea cucumbers need the slowest acclimation of all.
• Handle corals and clams by their base, skeleton or frag plug only – never the soft tissue, polyps or mantle.
• Light acclimation: place new corals low in the tank away from strong light and flow for the first few days, then raise them gradually over 1 to 2 weeks.

Full details: see our Acclimation Guide for the complete drip and cup methods and coral dipping.