The Children's Python (Antaresia childreni) is one of the finest first snakes in the world. Despite the name, they are not named for children: the species was named after 19th-century zoologist John George Children. They are calm, hardy, manageable in size and reliably food-motivated, making them an excellent choice for anyone starting out with reptiles. Adults typically reach 0.8 to 1.2 metres and can live 15 to 25 years with proper care.
We stock several forms including standard, Marble, Marbled, Patternless, Reduced Pattern, and het morphs. All require identical care regardless of appearance.
In Queensland a wildlife keeper's licence is required. See our Queensland Reptile Licence Guide before purchasing.
Before You Set Up
Have the enclosure at correct temperature before the snake arrives. A python coming home to a cold or incorrectly set up enclosure will refuse food and take far longer to settle. Set up first, buy the snake second.
Enclosure
Children's pythons do not need a large enclosure and are actually more settled in a snug one. For a single adult, an enclosure around 90 x 45 x 45 cm is suitable. Too much space stresses them and makes it harder for them to find their heat source and hides.
For juvenile and young pythons in their first 6 months or so, house them in a small, secure plastic container (commonly called a click-clack or tub) placed inside your larger, thermostatically heated cabinet. The smaller space helps them feel secure and usually results in more reliable feeding. Transition to the larger enclosure as they grow.
Every enclosure must have at least two hides, one on the warm end and one on the cool end, and a secure escape-proof lid. Pythons are strong and determined. Use a solid substrate such as paper, newspaper, or reptile-safe bark. Browse our enclosures and reptile supplies.
Heating
Provide a thermal gradient from warm to cool across the enclosure so the snake can regulate its own temperature.
- Warm end: 30 to 33°C
- Cool end: 24 to 26°C
- Night: allow temperatures to drop a few degrees, down to around 20 to 22°C. Avoid sustained temperatures below 18°C.
For tubs and smaller enclosures, a thermostatically controlled heat mat under one end of the container works well. For larger wooden or glass enclosures, a heat lamp or infrared globe on one end creates the gradient. Always connect heat sources to a reliable thermostat and verify temperatures with a thermometer at each end, not by touch or by trusting the thermostat dial alone.
Browse our heating and thermostat range.
Lighting and UVB
Children's pythons are crepuscular to nocturnal and can be maintained successfully without UVB. That said, there is growing evidence that low-level UVB supports general health in all reptiles. If you choose to provide it, a low-intensity 5.0 UVB tube on a 12-hour day/night cycle is appropriate. Turn all lighting off at night to maintain a natural cycle. Even without UVB, a regular day/night light cycle helps keep the snake settled.
Feeding
Children's pythons should be fed frozen-thawed rodents only. Never feed live prey: live rodents can injure a python, and frozen-thawed feeding is safer and more practical for both the keeper and the snake.
Choose prey that is approximately the same width as the thickest part of the snake's body. Going significantly larger increases the risk of regurgitation; going too small means the snake gets poor nutrition per meal.
- Juveniles: feed every 7 days, starting on pinkie mice and progressing to fuzzy mice and then adult mice as the snake grows.
- Adults: feed every 7 to 14 days depending on body condition. An adult that is maintaining healthy weight can be stretched toward 14 days between feeds.
Always thaw prey thoroughly to room temperature or slightly above before offering. Do not handle the snake for at least 48 hours after feeding to allow digestion.
Occasional fasting around a shed is normal. A snake that is about to shed (milky or blue eyes, dull skin, reduced appetite) should be left alone and not pressured to feed.
Provide fresh water in a sturdy bowl at all times. Many pythons will soak in their water bowl, especially before shedding, which is normal.
Browse our frozen feeders.
Handling and Temperament
Children's pythons can be mildly defensive as juveniles, particularly as hatchlings fresh from the egg. Most settle down quickly and become confident, calm handling snakes with regular, gentle interaction. Let a new snake settle for at least a week before attempting handling. Keep sessions short to begin with, support the body fully, and avoid handling for 48 hours after feeding and during a shed cycle.
Quick Reference
| Parameter | Target |
|---|---|
| Adult size | 0.8 to 1.2 metres |
| Lifespan | 15 to 25 years |
| Enclosure (adult) | 90 x 45 x 45 cm or similar |
| Warm end | 30 to 33°C |
| Cool end | 24 to 26°C |
| Night minimum | 20 to 22°C |
| UVB | Optional but beneficial (5.0, low intensity) |
| Feeding (juvenile) | Every 7 days, frozen-thawed |
| Feeding (adult) | Every 7 to 14 days, frozen-thawed |
| Prey size | Same width as the snake's thickest point |
Shop
- Enclosures and Reptile Supplies
- Heating and Thermostats
- UVB Lighting
- Substrate and Decor
- Frozen Feeders
If you have questions about setup or feeders, our team is always happy to help.
Disclaimer
This guide is provided for general educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Individual animals vary and outcomes cannot be guaranteed. Always consult a qualified reptile vet for health concerns. A Queensland wildlife keeper's licence is required to purchase and keep Children's Pythons.
