Eastern Banjo Frogs live across south-eastern Australia in woodland, heath, grassland and farmland near dams, ditches and seasonal wetlands, spending dry spells burrowed underground and emerging to feed and breed after rain. Natural origin for this listing is south-eastern Australia. The enclosure should recreate that setting with a deep, moist, loamy substrate for burrowing, a shallow water area and low cover such as logs and leaf litter.

A healthy specimen is plump and firm, with clear eyes and clean skin. Banjo Frogs are stout and warty in dark brown to olive, with a paler often mottled belly, a raised gland on each shin and frequently a pale or reddish stripe along the back and a wash of colour on the flanks. Adult size is generally 7–8.5 cm, so the animal should never be purchased only for its current size.

Temperament is best described as shy and secretive, a burrower that spends much of the day hidden and emerges at night, so handling should be kept brief and with clean, wet hands. They can be kept singly or in a small group of similar-sized individuals; avoid housing very different sizes together and do not combine different species.

Feed as an insectivore; a varied diet of appropriately sized crickets, woodroaches, earthworms and other gut-loaded invertebrates. Feed juveniles daily and adults every two to three days, dusting with a calcium supplement at most feeds and a vitamin supplement periodically. Offer food at night when the frog is active, and remove uneaten prey.

House in a terrarium of at least 45 x 45 x 30 cm for one or two, with a deep moist substrate of soil, sand and coir that allows burrowing. No basking spot is required; keep days around 18–26°C with a natural cooler drop at night, avoiding extended heat. Low-level UVB is beneficial though not essential for this nocturnal species. Keep humidity high with regular light misting and a shallow bowl of dechlorinated water changed daily. Provide low cover such as bark, logs and leaf litter, and spot-clean regularly while keeping the substrate from becoming waterlogged.

Banjo Frogs are egg-layers, cycled with a cooler winter followed by warm, wet conditions that trigger calling. The male's call is given from water, and the female lays eggs in a distinctive floating foam nest, with aquatic tadpoles raised in clean water until metamorphosis. Breeding is achievable for a dedicated keeper able to replicate a seasonal wet trigger.

Other Eastern Banjo Frogs of similar size can be kept together in a large enough enclosure with ample substrate and feeding space.

Do not house with frogs of markedly different size or with other frog species, fish or reptiles. Never mix wild-caught and captive animals to avoid spreading disease.

Size options reflect the sizes we stock; any shown as sold out will return as we restock. Australian livestock for in-store collection or local delivery, with our live arrival guarantee. A reptile keeper's licence is required to buy and keep native reptiles and amphibians in most Australian states - please ensure you hold the appropriate licence for your state before purchasing.

Most reptiles and frogs are solitary and shouldn't be housed together without species-specific advice — even similar-looking animals can stress or injure each other. Check this species' care sheet above, or contact us before combining species in one enclosure.

Is your enclosure ready?

A few quick checks before you buy save most of the common problems with new reptiles and frogs.

Size for the adult, not the juvenile

Check the species page for adult size and minimum enclosure size, and set up for what this animal will grow into — not what it looks like today.

Heating & temperature zones

Set up proper heating on a thermostat before your animal arrives, with the correct hot and cool zone temperatures for the species — check the species page for the exact range.

UVB lighting

Most reptiles need the correct UVB tube for their species. Replace tubes on the manufacturer's schedule even if they still look fine — UVB output drops off well before the globe visibly fails.

Humidity & misting

Dial in humidity and, if the species needs it, a misting routine before your animal arrives rather than adjusting it after.

Licence & permits

Keeping a native Australian species requires a valid wildlife licence. We can't dispatch until your licence and any required permits are verified, so sort this out before you order.

Full details: see our Reptile & Amphibian Purchasing Policy and our Reptile Care Sheets for species-specific setup guides.

Where we ship

We are based in Brisbane and ship live fish and corals to most of Australia. Some states have import rules that may affect what we can send and the cost.

• Western Australia: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Tasmania: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Northern Territory: May require a permit and be subject to quarantine.
• Regional and remote areas: Carrier options can be limited, which may affect service and transit time.

If you are unsure we can reach your location, please contact us before ordering.

A note on timing: All transit times are estimates and can vary with your location, the weather, and carrier schedules. Regional and remote areas may take longer. To give your livestock the safest trip, please order early in the week.

Secure, Ventilated Boxes

Each animal travels in a secure, well-ventilated box or breathable bag appropriate to its species and size, so it stays safely contained with adequate airflow for the whole journey — a different process to how we pack fish, corals and plants.

No Room to Move

Any empty space inside the box is filled with packing materials such as paper or bubble wrap, so containers stay secure and can't shift in transit.

Clearly Labelled

Every box is sealed with our custom packing tape and clearly labelled as livestock, so freight handlers know exactly what they're carrying.

When Your Animal Arrives

Please collect your animal promptly on arrival and allow it to settle quietly in its prepared enclosure before handling.

Questions about packing or shipping to your area? Email us at sales@nicksaquariumoceanariumterrarium.com.au — we're always happy to talk through it before you order.

Arrive Alive Guarantee (DOA & DAA)

Reptiles and frogs are covered by the same Arrive Alive Guarantee as the rest of our livestock. This applies to air freight shipments only.

Dead on Arrival (DOA)

If your animal arrives deceased, take clear photos or video in the sealed, unopened travel box or bag, and send your claim by email or text message within 4 hours of receiving your order. Claims by Facebook Messenger or phone cannot be accepted, and claims made after 4 hours may be declined. Please include your name, order number, approximate time received, and details of the animal affected.

Death After Arrival (DAA)

DAA cover extends up to 12 hours after airport pickup. Clear photos or video are required, submitted within 24 hours of delivery, and the animal must have been housed in a fully set up, correctly heated enclosure.

If your claim is approved

We will offer store credit or a replacement of the same item, subject to availability. Shipping charges and fees are non-refundable.

To keep your cover valid

Be present at the airport or at home to receive your order, and collect it promptly. Animals left unattended, returned to a depot, or delayed in collection may void cover. We can only ship to a valid residential or business address, not PO boxes or third-party addresses.

7-Day Reptile Health Guarantee

On top of Arrive Alive cover, reptiles get an additional 7-day health guarantee that fish don't have. All reptiles are assessed before sale and confirmed eating, drinking and behaving normally. If a major health issue is confirmed by a vet to have been present before sale, we'll offer a refund or a replacement of equal value.

• Get a full veterinary exam within 7 days of purchase, with a detailed written report — a reptile specialist vet is strongly recommended.
• Vet costs are the buyer's responsibility.
• Not covered: issues caused by incorrect temperature or humidity, enclosure setup, inadequate quarantine, transport stress, or reptile viral diseases (these aren't tested for prior to sale).

Full terms: see our Guarantees & Policies page (sections 1 and 3).

Why quarantine

Quarantining a new reptile or frog in an isolated area away from your existing collection protects the animals you already keep, and gives your new arrival time to settle in without added stress.

Recommended approach

Keep the new animal in a separate room or enclosure from your existing collection, and wash your hands (or change gloves) between handling different animals to avoid cross-contamination.

Vet check

A full veterinary exam within the first week is a good idea for any new reptile or frog, and it's required if you ever need to make a claim under our 7-Day Reptile Health Guarantee.

Full details: see our Reptile Health Guarantee Policy and Reptile Care Sheets.

Before your animal arrives

The enclosure must be fully set up and running at the correct temperature, UVB output and humidity before your animal comes home — not almost set up, fully running and verified with thermometers. An animal arriving into an enclosure that's still warming up, or with an untested UVB lamp, starts its time with you under unnecessary stress.

Settling in

Place your animal directly into its enclosure as calmly and quickly as possible, with minimal handling. Leave it completely undisturbed for five to seven days — no handling, no rearranging, no repeatedly opening the enclosure to check on it (brief visual checks from a distance are fine). Hold off feeding for the first 48 to 72 hours, and keep the room quiet during this period — noise, vibration and foot traffic near the enclosure all delay settling.

Frogs

Frogs absorb water and chemicals directly through their skin, so never handle a frog with dry hands or hands with soap, sunscreen, insect repellent or lotion on them — use clean, wet, powder-free hands or powder-free gloves. Always dechlorinate any water that goes into a frog enclosure, including misting water. The five-to-seven-day settling-in rule applies especially firmly to frogs, and most will spend the first several days hidden and motionless — this is normal.

Axolotls

Axolotls need cool water between 14 and 18°C and start experiencing serious stress above 20°C — anything above 22°C is dangerous. Confirm your tank temperature is in range with a thermometer before your axolotl arrives, and dechlorinate all water, since their permeable skin absorbs substances directly from it.

Full details: see our Acclimation Guide for species-specific setup, and our Reptile Care Sheets and Frog Care Sheets.