Centralian Carpet Pythons occur through the rocky ranges, gorges and river red gum-lined watercourses of central Australia, particularly the MacDonnell Ranges around Alice Springs, sheltering in rock crevices and climbing readily among rocks and trees. Natural origin for this listing is arid central Australia. The enclosure should recreate that warm, dry, rocky environment with a strong temperature gradient, secure hides and sturdy branches or ledges to climb, since this is a semi-arboreal species that makes good use of height.

A healthy specimen is well-muscled with clear eyes, a clean vent and a smooth, glossy body. This is a young hypomelanistic Centralian, in which reduced black pigment lets the warm reds, oranges and tans glow more brightly, and colour usually deepens and enriches as the snake matures. Adult size is generally 180–220 cm, so this small snake will grow into a large one and size alone should never be the reason for a purchase.

Temperament is best described as generally calm but food-driven, and while hatchlings can be defensive, most settle well with regular gentle handling. They are best housed one snake to an enclosure. Carpet pythons do not need company, and cohabiting risks stress, competition at feeding and the danger of a feeding-response mistake, so pairs are only brought together briefly and under supervision for breeding.

Feed as a carnivore; appropriately sized rodents no wider than the thickest part of the snake. A growing snake like this one takes smaller prey more often, moving up to an appropriately sized rat every one to two weeks as an adult, with less frequent feeding through the cooler months. Always thaw and warm frozen prey thoroughly, and keep fresh water available at all times.

A young snake can be started in a smaller, secure enclosure and moved up as it grows; an adult needs a minimum of about 180 x 60 x 60 cm, with a larger, taller enclosure preferred to let this semi-arboreal snake climb. Provide a warm basking zone of 32–35°C at one end and a cooler end of 24–26°C, with a night-time drop to around 20°C, controlled by a thermostat. UVB is not essential for this species, though low-level UVB is beneficial. Keep humidity low to moderate, around 40–55%, raising it slightly during shedding. Use a dry, absorbent substrate, provide a secure hide at each end, sturdy climbing branches or rock ledges, and a water bowl large enough to drink from, and spot-clean regularly with periodic full cleans.

Centralian Carpet Pythons are egg-layers, cycled for breeding with a cooler, drier winter period and a natural drop in night temperatures. After mating and a pre-lay slough the female lays a clutch of roughly 15–30 eggs, which are typically incubated at about 31–32°C for around 50–60 days, or brooded by the female. Breeding is years away for a snake this size and should only be attempted with the space, resources and licensing to raise a large clutch.

None. Centralian Carpet Pythons are solitary and thrive housed alone; they do not need or benefit from company.

Do not house with other snakes of any species or size, or with any other animals, which would only be treated as competition or prey. Even other carpet pythons should share an enclosure only briefly and under supervision for breeding.

Size options reflect the sizes we stock; any shown as sold out will return as we restock. Australian livestock for in-store collection or local delivery, with our live arrival guarantee. A reptile keeper's licence is required to buy and keep native reptiles and amphibians in most Australian states - please ensure you hold the appropriate licence for your state before purchasing.

Most reptiles and frogs are solitary and shouldn't be housed together without species-specific advice — even similar-looking animals can stress or injure each other. Check this species' care sheet above, or contact us before combining species in one enclosure.

Is your enclosure ready?

A few quick checks before you buy save most of the common problems with new reptiles and frogs.

Size for the adult, not the juvenile

Check the species page for adult size and minimum enclosure size, and set up for what this animal will grow into — not what it looks like today.

Heating & temperature zones

Set up proper heating on a thermostat before your animal arrives, with the correct hot and cool zone temperatures for the species — check the species page for the exact range.

UVB lighting

Most reptiles need the correct UVB tube for their species. Replace tubes on the manufacturer's schedule even if they still look fine — UVB output drops off well before the globe visibly fails.

Humidity & misting

Dial in humidity and, if the species needs it, a misting routine before your animal arrives rather than adjusting it after.

Licence & permits

Keeping a native Australian species requires a valid wildlife licence. We can't dispatch until your licence and any required permits are verified, so sort this out before you order.

Full details: see our Reptile & Amphibian Purchasing Policy and our Reptile Care Sheets for species-specific setup guides.

Where we ship

We are based in Brisbane and ship live fish and corals to most of Australia. Some states have import rules that may affect what we can send and the cost.

• Western Australia: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Tasmania: Import requirements and fees may apply. Read first.
• Northern Territory: May require a permit and be subject to quarantine.
• Regional and remote areas: Carrier options can be limited, which may affect service and transit time.

If you are unsure we can reach your location, please contact us before ordering.

A note on timing: All transit times are estimates and can vary with your location, the weather, and carrier schedules. Regional and remote areas may take longer. To give your livestock the safest trip, please order early in the week.

Secure, Ventilated Boxes

Each animal travels in a secure, well-ventilated box or breathable bag appropriate to its species and size, so it stays safely contained with adequate airflow for the whole journey — a different process to how we pack fish, corals and plants.

No Room to Move

Any empty space inside the box is filled with packing materials such as paper or bubble wrap, so containers stay secure and can't shift in transit.

Clearly Labelled

Every box is sealed with our custom packing tape and clearly labelled as livestock, so freight handlers know exactly what they're carrying.

When Your Animal Arrives

Please collect your animal promptly on arrival and allow it to settle quietly in its prepared enclosure before handling.

Questions about packing or shipping to your area? Email us at sales@nicksaquariumoceanariumterrarium.com.au — we're always happy to talk through it before you order.

Arrive Alive Guarantee (DOA & DAA)

Reptiles and frogs are covered by the same Arrive Alive Guarantee as the rest of our livestock. This applies to air freight shipments only.

Dead on Arrival (DOA)

If your animal arrives deceased, take clear photos or video in the sealed, unopened travel box or bag, and send your claim by email or text message within 4 hours of receiving your order. Claims by Facebook Messenger or phone cannot be accepted, and claims made after 4 hours may be declined. Please include your name, order number, approximate time received, and details of the animal affected.

Death After Arrival (DAA)

DAA cover extends up to 12 hours after airport pickup. Clear photos or video are required, submitted within 24 hours of delivery, and the animal must have been housed in a fully set up, correctly heated enclosure.

If your claim is approved

We will offer store credit or a replacement of the same item, subject to availability. Shipping charges and fees are non-refundable.

To keep your cover valid

Be present at the airport or at home to receive your order, and collect it promptly. Animals left unattended, returned to a depot, or delayed in collection may void cover. We can only ship to a valid residential or business address, not PO boxes or third-party addresses.

7-Day Reptile Health Guarantee

On top of Arrive Alive cover, reptiles get an additional 7-day health guarantee that fish don't have. All reptiles are assessed before sale and confirmed eating, drinking and behaving normally. If a major health issue is confirmed by a vet to have been present before sale, we'll offer a refund or a replacement of equal value.

• Get a full veterinary exam within 7 days of purchase, with a detailed written report — a reptile specialist vet is strongly recommended.
• Vet costs are the buyer's responsibility.
• Not covered: issues caused by incorrect temperature or humidity, enclosure setup, inadequate quarantine, transport stress, or reptile viral diseases (these aren't tested for prior to sale).

Full terms: see our Guarantees & Policies page (sections 1 and 3).

Why quarantine

Quarantining a new reptile or frog in an isolated area away from your existing collection protects the animals you already keep, and gives your new arrival time to settle in without added stress.

Recommended approach

Keep the new animal in a separate room or enclosure from your existing collection, and wash your hands (or change gloves) between handling different animals to avoid cross-contamination.

Vet check

A full veterinary exam within the first week is a good idea for any new reptile or frog, and it's required if you ever need to make a claim under our 7-Day Reptile Health Guarantee.

Full details: see our Reptile Health Guarantee Policy and Reptile Care Sheets.

Before your animal arrives

The enclosure must be fully set up and running at the correct temperature, UVB output and humidity before your animal comes home — not almost set up, fully running and verified with thermometers. An animal arriving into an enclosure that's still warming up, or with an untested UVB lamp, starts its time with you under unnecessary stress.

Settling in

Place your animal directly into its enclosure as calmly and quickly as possible, with minimal handling. Leave it completely undisturbed for five to seven days — no handling, no rearranging, no repeatedly opening the enclosure to check on it (brief visual checks from a distance are fine). Hold off feeding for the first 48 to 72 hours, and keep the room quiet during this period — noise, vibration and foot traffic near the enclosure all delay settling.

Frogs

Frogs absorb water and chemicals directly through their skin, so never handle a frog with dry hands or hands with soap, sunscreen, insect repellent or lotion on them — use clean, wet, powder-free hands or powder-free gloves. Always dechlorinate any water that goes into a frog enclosure, including misting water. The five-to-seven-day settling-in rule applies especially firmly to frogs, and most will spend the first several days hidden and motionless — this is normal.

Axolotls

Axolotls need cool water between 14 and 18°C and start experiencing serious stress above 20°C — anything above 22°C is dangerous. Confirm your tank temperature is in range with a thermometer before your axolotl arrives, and dechlorinate all water, since their permeable skin absorbs substances directly from it.

Full details: see our Acclimation Guide for species-specific setup, and our Reptile Care Sheets and Frog Care Sheets.