Aqua Medic Ozone Generator

• Four output sizes – 30 to 400 mg/h, covering nano reefs through large display and system volumes.
• Adjustable output – dial ozone production down rather than running flat-out on every system.
• 12V DC generator with external transformer – runs from a 100-240V 50/60Hz supply, so it's compatible with Australian power without a separate converter.
• Designed to feed a reactor or skimmer – ozone is injected into the air intake of your existing skimmer or a dedicated ozone reactor, not dosed directly into the display.

Marine and reef systems need more ozone per litre than freshwater, because the target is redox and organics rather than just water clarity – that's why the marine capacity in the table above is always lower than the freshwater capacity for the same model. Start from your marine or reef system's total water volume, including sump, and pick the model rated at or above it. If your system sits right on the boundary between two models, the larger one gives you headroom to dial back rather than running flat-out permanently.

• Ozone generator unit
• External power transformer

• Air dryer – humid feed air reduces ozone output; see the Aqua Medic Ozone Booster - Air Dryer
• Ozone reactor or skimmer injection fitting
• Redox (ORP) controller or probe

• Suitable for: marine, reef and freshwater systems run through an existing skimmer or a dedicated ozone reactor, sized to the table above.
• Not suitable for: dosing directly into the display with no skimmer or reactor to strip the treated air, and no carbon stage to catch any ozone residual.

Power draw is low across the range – 2.5 W on the smallest model up to 5 W on the 250 and 400. Run continuously at 30c/kWh, that's roughly $6.57 to $13.14 a year depending on model; see the variant table above for the figure per size. The real running cost to plan around is redox: an ozone generator run without a controller can push redox higher than intended, which is a livestock risk, not just a power bill.

Ozone is a lung and gill irritant at working concentrations and must never vent into the room. Always feed ozone into a skimmer or reactor, run the treated water back through activated carbon before it reaches the display, and use a redox controller to cut the generator off if redox climbs too high. Feed the generator with dry air – see the Aqua Medic Ozone Booster - Air Dryer – since humid air reduces output and shortens desiccant life downstream.

• Aqua Medic Ozone Booster - Air Dryer – dries the feed air so output stays consistent.
• Aqua Medic T Controller Twin 2.0 – pairs with a redox probe to control the generator automatically.
• Aqua Medic 230mV Redox (ORP) Test Fluid 60ml – for calibrating the redox probe.

Covered by Aqua Medic's manufacturer warranty against defects, in addition to your rights under Australian Consumer Law. Standard freight applies.

Do I need a controller to run this safely?

It will run without one, but a redox controller is the only way to stop ozone production automatically if redox runs higher than intended. We'd recommend one on any system running ozone continuously.

Can I feed ozone straight into my display?

No – ozone needs to be injected into a skimmer or reactor and the treated water passed through carbon before it reaches livestock. Dosing it directly is a livestock safety risk.

Why does the marine capacity drop so much compared to freshwater on the same model?

Marine and reef systems are being dosed for redox and organics rather than just clarity, which needs more ozone per litre than a freshwater system – so the same generator covers a smaller marine volume.

What's the difference between the four sizes besides output?

Power draw steps up with output – 2.5 W on the 30, up to 5 W on the 250 and 400 – but all four share the same 12V DC generator and 100-240V transformer arrangement and the same 4/6 mm hose connection.